VISE JAW WITH .040" SHIM
STANDARD JAW WILL
TO ENABLE DEEP CUTS TO
CLAMP MAXIMUM
BE MADE IN KEY
AMOUNT OF KEY
Figure 1
CUTTING KEYS
1)
Keys are always top shoulder gauged with the full-function key gauges.
Never attempt to bottom shoulder gauge a key against the vise jaws.
2)
Always remember to flip back your key gauges before cutting a key.
Switch ON your machine and gently raise the carriage and position it so the
stylus is right over the key. Continue to ease up on the carriage and
manipulate the carriage to make a smooth gentle cut down the left edge of
the "V" cut in the key and then gently continue across the rest of the key to
the tip cutting all cuts on the key.
3)
You may want to reverse the carriage and make a "clean-up" cut back to the
bow of the key.
4)
Turn OFF your machine.
CUTTING STEEL KEYS IS NOT RECOMMENDED
Cutting steel keys will accelerate cutter wear. Some steel keys will ruin your cutter wheel with
just one pass.
NOTE:
Some automotive presentation keys are made of Hardened Steel and can ruin the cutter
wheel instantly! Don't befooled by the decorative Gold, Brass or Silver-plating on these keys.
Suggestion:
Keep a small magnet near your key machine to identify steel keys. Before cutting a steel key
try filing a small groove where one of the deeper cuts will be—if the key won't file easily it won't cut any
better in your key machine and will mostly likely ruin your cutter!
7.
VISE
JAWS
Choosing the correct vise jaws. For most key cutting work the vise jaws can remain in the standard
configuration. In the standard configuration the entire "throat" of the bottom and top jaws is used.
Measuring from the front faces of the top and bottom vise jaws and into the throat of the jaws—you will
measure . 142". This throat dimension of .142" is how much of the key is consumed by the vise jaws when
the key is clamped. Most keys are rarely cut deeper than .142" from the back edge of the key blade.
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