OPEL C Owner's Manual
9
RSF Woodburning Fireplaces
FIRST FIRES
You will experience a slow start-up during the first few fires. The refractory bricks lining the firebox contain
moisture from manufacturing and require a few hot fires to evaporate the moisture. While there is still moisture in
the bricks, they will be black with smoke deposits. When the moisture has dissipated, the bricks will turn white.
Unlike cast iron stoves, there is no need to cure the fireplace itself by starting with small fires and progressively
larger ones. Feel free to light a large fire from the very start.
You will experience a slight odor during the first few fires. This odor comes from curing paint and oil burning off
the metal. The odor may be strong enough to set off your smoke detector. Open the doors and windows to allow
the room to properly ventilate.
Before the first fire, be absolutely sure to use regular dish soap and water to wipe off all fingerprints and
debris from the gold plating if you have chosen this option. The plating cures during this first fire, the
acid from your finger prints will permanently etch the gold plating.
LIGHTING
Ensure that the catalytic bypass is open (pulled all the way out) while starting a fire (see Figure 3). Leave it open
until the fire is hot (approx. 15-30 minutes).
Ensure that the combustion air control lever is all the way to the right in the open position. You will want as much
air as possible for the lighting process.
Start by laying your fire starter and kindling. Traditional fire starter is crumpled newspaper; make sure to use
enough to light the kindling (5-6 pieces should do). Next lay the kindling crisscrossed over the newspaper. Using
plenty of kindling ensures that the chimney will heat up quickly and establish a strong draft,
never use any
flammable liquids
. Light the paper and close the door most of the way, but don’t shut it completely. If the door is
positioned correctly you will see air rushing into the fireplace, this will help the lighting process.
Once the kindling is lit and sustaining fire, you can add some small pieces of seasoned cordwood. Use the
andirons in front to help position the cordwood so as not to flatten and smother the fire you’ve just created.
Always add at least 3 pieces of cordwood. Position your cordwood in a manner that the fire will hit several pieces
as it rises and has air gaps to flow through. Continue to leave the door slightly open until the cordwood is lit. Close
the door completely when the fire is established, if the fire goes out you’ve shut the door too early.
WARNING: DO NOT USE A GRATE OR ELEVATE THE FIRE.
ENGAGE THE CATALYST
When the fire is hot, you should always engage the catalyst. To
engage the catalyst, simply push the bypass handle all the way in
so that the bypass damper is closed. Closing the bypass will force
the smoke through the catalyst. When the catalyst is engaged
you will receive more heat from your fireplace and it will burn
much more cleanly.
The catalyst should not be engaged (bypass closed) unless the
fireplace is hot. If the bypass is closed before the fireplace is hot,
the catalyst will get dirty and no extra heat will be generated. The
catalyst must be at least 175°C (350
°
F) before it will start to burn
off the wood smoke. Typically this requires the fire to be lit for 15
to 30 minutes.
CATALYST TEMPERATURE PROBE
For an exact temperature reading at your catalyst, your fireplace is equipped with a temperature probe which
measures the temperature within 1" of the catalyst. A wire and connector have been dropped down on the left
side of the fireplace, inside the casing. You can connect to the probe with our optional Digital Temperature
Display (FO-DTD) or any standard Type K Thermocouple/Sensor Thermometer.
For an accurate temperature reading the bypass must be closed. Here are the important temperature ranges that
you need to be aware of:
Figure 3 Bypass Handle
Bypass Closed
(catalyst engaged)
Bypass Open
(catalyst not engaged)
