©2014, Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Page 15
Check
the
neck
angle
by
laying
a
24
″
straight
edge
along
the
middle
of
the
frets
on
the
fretboard.
Align
the
12
¾
″
mark
on
the
straightedge
with
the
12
th
fret
(the
one
with
2
dots).
(Note:
12
¾
″
is
used
because
the
scale
length,
the
distance
from
the
nut
to
the
saddle,
will
be
25
½
″
.
The
12
th
fret
is
exactly
½
the
scale
length.
Since
we
haven’t
glued
the
nut
to
the
neck
yet,
we
can
approximate
the
bridge
position
by
measuring
from
the
12
th
fret.)
Under
the
end
of
the
straightedge,
place
the
bridge,
centering
left
to
right
and
aligning
the
end
of
straightedge
over
the
slot
where
the
saddle
will
go.
The
straightedge
should
just
clear
the
top
of
the
bridge.
See
Figure
16:
Checking
the
Neck
Angle
.
If
it
dips
below
the
top
of
the
bridge
or
is
more
than
1/8
″
above
the
top
of
the
bridge,
adjustments
may
need
to
be
made
to
the
neck
heel.
To
make
adjustments,
use
a
sharp
chisel,
a
file,
or
a
card
scraper
to
remove
material
from
the
appropriate
side
of
the
neck
heel
to
get
the
neck
to
raise
or
lower
as
desired
(or
move
left
or
right).
It
is
critical
that
the
face
of
the
neck
heel
that
meets
the
body
remain
flat.
If
it
does
not,
the
neck
‐
body
joint
will
not
be
as
strong
as
possible.
2.
Filing
the
Nut
to
Match
the
Neck
Width
If
the
nut
is
wider
than
the
neck
it
is
possible
to
file
the
ends
of
the
nut
so
that
it
is
the
same
width
as
the
neck.
It
is
best
to
do
this
before
the
nut
is
glued
in
place
so
that
the
neck
isn’t
scratched
by
the
file
in
the
process.
File
both
sides
equally
so
that
the
strings
don’t
end
up
off
center
on
the
neck.
Only
file
a
little
at
a
time
so
that
the
nut
doesn’t
end
up
narrower
than
the
neck.
Figure
16:
Checking
the
Neck
Angle
Check
gap
here
12
¾
″
at
12
th
fret
