©2014, Rockler Woodworking and Hardware
Page 12
pieces
of
blue
masking
tape
placed
on
the
outside
of
the
scribe
line
might
make
it
easier
to
see
during
the
clamping
process.
They
can
be
removed
after
the
clamps
are
set,
before
the
glue
dries.
Allow
the
glue
to
dry
for
at
least
24
hours.
9.
Install
the
Bridge
Pins
Once
the
glue
for
the
saddle
has
dried,
it
is
time
to
install
the
bridge
pins.
Use
a
3/16
″
drill
bit
to
drill
a
hole
through
the
bridge,
all
the
way
through
the
top
of
the
guitar,
at
each
of
the
locations
already
marked
in
the
top
of
the
bridge.
Be
sure
to
drill
the
hole
perpendicular
to
the
guitar
body.
After
drilling,
the
bridge
pins
won’t
fit
in
the
holes.
That’s
because
the
holes
must
be
tapered
to
match
the
shape
of
the
bridge
pins.
Normally,
a
guitar
luthier
would
use
a
special
tool
called
bridge
pin
reamer
for
this
task.
A
more
commonly
available
and
less
expensive
tool
is
a
round
needle
file.
Use
the
needle
file
to
slowly
enlarge
the
top
of
the
bridge
pin
holes,
tapering
them
toward
the
bottom.
Keep
checking
the
fit
of
the
bridge
pins.
The
bridge
pins
should
fit
just
snugly
and
they
shouldn’t
be
too
loose.
Figure
11:
Tapering
a
Bridge
Pin
Hole
10.
Install
the
Saddle
Lightly
sand
the
bottom
of
the
saddle
with
100
‐
grit
sandpaper.
Apply
a
small
bead
of
glue
to
the
bottom
of
the
saddle
and
place
it
in
the
slot
in
the
bridge.
Be
careful
not
to
get
any
excess
glue
on
the
bridge
and
make
sure
the
bridge
is
inserted
into
the
slot
facing
the
right
direction
(see
Figure
12:
Saddle
Installation
,
for
proper
orientation).
Lightly
clamp,
or
at
least
tape,
the
saddle
in
place
until
the
glue
has
dried.
Make
sure
the
saddle
is
centered
inside
the
slot
in
the
bridge.
If
there
is
any
play
in
the
slot,
front
to
back,
it
is
better
to
have
the
saddle
contacting
the
front
of
the
bridge,
facing
the
soundhole.
The
strings
will
force
it
in
this
direction.
