FR-10
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10
NOTE CONCERNING THE AUDIO OUTPUT JACK
Your receiver kit is supplied with a standard subminiature 2.5 mm
(3/32”) audio jack, which mates with commonly available earphone
plugs and adapters available at Radio Shack, such as 274-290 (plug) or
274-327 (adapter for 1/8” mono plug). If you prefer to use another size
and style jack, we suggest that you still install the original jack and then
wire your own jack in parallel with it rather than rough up the PC board
to accommodate your jack.
SEMICONDUCTOR REPLACEMENT DATA
U1 NE602 (Signetics) Contact Ramsey Factory
U2 MC3359 (Motorola) ECG860 or SK7731
U3 LM386 (National) available at Radio Shack, other suppliers
Q1 2SC2498 or 2570 ECG10 or SK9139
Q2,3 2N3904 available at Radio Shack, other suppliers
D1 BB405 contact Ramsey Factory
D2 1N4148 available at Radio Shack, other suppliers
FR-10
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75. Install R15, 470K ohms [yellow-violet-yellow].
5. FINAL CONNECTIONS: THE LM386 AUDIO IC STAGE
You now have a working FM receiver ready for adjustment. The output of
the MC3359 FM IC simply needs to be boosted to listening level. A few
more connections, and your receiver will be ready for adjustment and
testing! Now would be a good time to review some of your previous work
and also to make sure you have on hand what you'll need for testing:
antenna, fresh battery, earphone or speaker with correct plug or adapter.
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76. Review the instructions for installing U1 and U2. Insert U3, the
LM386 IC with the band or dot oriented correctly. Solder the 8
connections.
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77. Install C32, a 100 to 220 uf electrolytic, observe correct polarity.
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78. Install C31, .01 uf [marked .01 or 103 or 10nf].
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79. Install C36, 4.7 or 10 uf electrolytic, observe polarity.
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80. Install C33, 100 to 220 uf electrolytic, observe polarity.
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81. Install the battery snap terminal in the two holes below S1,
making sure that the positive (red) lead is inserted into the (+)
hole on the PC board.
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82. The battery bracket may be attached in a variety of ways. A wire
jumper can be passed through the two holes on the PC board,
then both ends soldered on the underside of the board. You may
prefer to use very small screws or even a double-sided mounting
adhesive strip or glue. In using such methods, make sure that the
battery will not block the PC board's mounting hole in its vicinity.
Wiring of the PC board is now complete. If you have the the patience, we
suggest a short break. Then take a magnifying lens and a bright light and
examine all your solder joints, touching up any connection which appears
less than perfect. Make sure all excess leads have been trimmed, and
that one is not bent back flat against the board, possibly causing a short.
Brush the solder side of the board with a stiff brush to make sure that no
loose wire trimmings or solder drippings (tsk tsk) are lodged between
connections.
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