Should it ever be necessary to remove the system from the wall, then unscrew
each leg (counter clockwise) in turn. As you unscrew the screw head will lie flat
in the frame until near the end of its travel, where the screw starts to rise. STOP
AT THAT POINT. Further turning will remove the screw from the assembly and
will make it more difficult to remove the system. The dog leg clamps are held at
the top of the mounting tower and should not fall off or down into the wall cavity,
UNLESS excessive force and continued counter-clockwise turning are used.
When each mounting screw is back out as described above you should be able
to remove the system. Because the clamps are not parked in the starting
position as when the system was first mounted, some of them may interfere with
the system's removal. Usually some wiggling can jostle each clamp into a
position where it isn't interfering. Using a manual screwdriver to apply slight
counterclockwise pressure should also turn a clamp out of the way. (Start with
the screws on one end of the system and turn each slightly. Angle the system
out a little more as each clamp moves out of the way.)
VIII. CONNECTIONS
Important: Always turn off your electronic equipment before connecting speakers.
Selecting Speaker Wire
We recommend the following
gauge of standard two-
conductor wire for the wiring
distances specified; if you
prefer, you can use heavier
(lower-gauge) wire.
You may wish to audition and compare the performance of some of the specialty
audio interconnects and speaker cable available from your dealer.
IX. WIRING
A. Rough-in Wiring
Typically, a cable with a wire pair connects each speaker to the signal sources,
either directly or through a local volume control. The speakers must be wired
appropriately for the intended control. The impedance loads of speakers must be
balanced with the capabilities of the amplifier(s). In some, mono only systems a
single wire may "daisy chain', entering from one speaker to another—beginning
and ending at the amplifier. If biamplification or biwiring is desired for increased
dynamic response and power handling, a second cable pair of wires must be run
to the speaker. Wire size should increase with longer runs—usually 16 AWG
stranded copper wire is minimal, with 12AWG desirable for longer runs. Audio
cable should avoid the electrical power wiring to avoid interference, which can be
audible—never running directly adjacent to it and crossing at right angles, when
necessary. Holes are normally located in the middle one-third of the framing
depth to minimize structural effects. If wire is within 1" of the front face of the
framing, it should be covered with (standard) steel protection plates to prevent
later fasteners from piercing the cable.
Wiring should be run to each back frame and inserted through one of the integral
wire clamps (no other fastener is required). Leave some additional wire at every
end, in case of a later shift; and dress the wire into the wall cavity, away from the
opening.
10
Under 25 ft (7.5 m):
16-gauge – (1.3 mm)
25-50 ft (15 m):
14-gauge – (1.6 mm)
Over 50 ft (30 m):
12-gauge – (2.0 mm)
