Pro-Line Boats 2004 30 Walk, Руководство пользователя

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Wax all gel coated surfaces a minimum of twice a year, more often if the boat is stored in
the sun. If due to neglect, the surface takes on a dull appearance that is not restorable by
waxing, hand buff with a rubbing compound such as Dupont No. 7, or power buff with
Mirror Glaze No. 1, then wax afterwards.
Caution: when power buffing use care not to leave swirl marks or "burn" the surface.
You may want to leave power buffing to a professional.
The gel coat on your Pro-Line is approximately 25-mil thick. Minor scratches and deep
stains that do not penetrate the gel coat can be lightly wet sanded with 600 grit, buffed
and waxed to remove.
If a deep gouge to the surface occurs that goes through the gel coat into the fiberglass, it
must be repaired promptly to avoid further damage. Your dealer is best equipped to
handle this repair and achieve good bonding and color match. There are many different
gel coat repair kits on the market for this use. However, results obtained may not be
satisfactory.
See your Pro-Line dealer for fiberglass damage deeper than 1/16 inch.
Marine Growth
If marine growth is a problem, consult your dealer about an anti-fouling finish for the
portions of the hull below the water line. When moored in salt or brackish water, it is
recommended to scrub the bottom monthly to prevent the accumulation of marine
growth.
Windows and Hatches
To clean acrylic, rinse with fresh water to remove as much grime as possible. Use bare
hands with plenty of water so you can feel any grit and avoid grinding it into the surface
as you dislodge it. When all material that may scratch the surface is removed, use a soft
clean cloth with a non-abrasive mild detergent and fresh water. Rinse and blot dry with a
clean dry chamois.
Grease and adhesives may be removed with kerosene, hexane or white gas (not gas you
burn in your boat, car or lawnmower ). Never use solvents such as acetone, silicone
spray, benzene, carbon tetrachloride, dry cleaning fluid, lacquer or paint thinner, or any
chlorinated solvent on acrylic since they may dissolve the material.
Stainless Steel / Aluminum
Stainless steel is used for bow rails and deck fittings on your Pro-Line. Stainless steel
and aluminum are corrosion resistant but not corrosion proof. If used in contact with
sulfides, chloride salts, or rusting metals, stainless will show rust spots, discolor or
corrode. The grain structure of stainless and aluminum, when modified by welding
processes, has increased susceptibility to micro-corrosion (invisible to the unaided eye)
and cracking. Proper care will preserve the weld strength and beauty of your stainless
and aluminum:
* Always clean frequently with soap and water. Most glass cleaners work.
* Always protect with a wax, especially around welds to guard against micro-
corrosion, cracking, and rust spots.
* Always remove rust and corrosion spots as they appear with a stainless steel or
aluminum cleaner.
* Never use coarse abrasives like sandpaper or steel wool, as these can cause
rusting.