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Pay attention to the orientation to the capacitors before removal. These capacitors are polarized, one
side is marked ( - ) or minus, is usually striped on that side also. Be careful to put the new capacitors
in the same way as the originals. Polarity is also marked on the board, with the negative position
indicated by a white dot.
Turn the board over, locate the capacitor solder points, apply heat with the soldering iron and remove
the existing capacitor. I would recommend using some type of desoldering method, in the picture to
the left a Vacuum Desoldering Tool is being used.
On the right is the solder points shown with the capacitor and solder removed. Do this to both existing
capacitors.
Below, on the left, is the removed, existing capacitor and the replacement 470uf/35V capacitor. The
“can” of the 470uf/35V capacitor is larger because of the increased voltage handling capacity. (35V)
The legs are the same spacing and there is plenty of room so the caps fit fine.
Place a new capacitor through a pair of solder points, being very sure that you have aligned it
correctly.
At this point it is very helpful to have a second person to hold the capacitor while you solder.
Making sure the alignment is correct, push the legs of the capacitor through the holes and hold the
capacitor flat against the board. In the picture on the right solder paste (flux) is being applied on the
legs at the solder points. An alternate method is to simply dip the tip of your solder into the paste.
This step can be omitted but the paste makes the solder flow evenly into the area being soldered and
adhere better to the surfaces.