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meets the fuselage. Remove the box, spread 30-minute epoxy behind the line and reinsert it into
the fuselage. Set the fuselage aside until the epoxy sets up completely.
INSTALL THE THROTTLE AND CHOKE
SERVOS AND PUSHRODS. Although the
choke can be operated manually, we
recommend that you hook it up to a servo for
ease of operation and
to provide a way to
stop the engine from the transmitter
. This
is not a substitute for a radio failsafe, but it
provides a backup in case of throttle servo or
linkage problems.
There are five servo tray openings in the
fuselage, three at the bottom of the area
above the wing saddle and two on the side.
The rudder servo needs to go in the center
bottom opening, but you can use whichever of the others provides the straightest routing to the
choke and throttle arms. We have also included two separate single servo-mounting trays that
you can locate to suit your engine, but be sure that you don’t mount any servo closer than 8
inches to any ignition component. Drill holes in the front fuselage former as needed and route
the pushrods along the fuselage sides to the choke and carb arms.
INSTALL THE DUMMY ENGINE
. Do not leave the dummy engine out
! In addition to
looking good, it serves as a cooling baffle to direct air over your model engine. Leaving the cowl
completely open in the front will slow down the air that comes in and could make your engine
overheat. Cut away only the part of the dummy engine that will be in front of your engine’s
cylinder.
The best way to glue the dummy engine in place is on a temporary work stand made from
household scrap. A 44-oz. soda cup works perfectly for supporting the dummy engine. Rough
up the top front portion of the dummy cylinders and glue them directly to the inside of the cowl
