OcCre OCC14009, Руководство по сборке

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS TITANIC
A. On a flat, stable surface glue pieces A1 and A2 together and strengthen their bond using pieces A3. Following the alphabetical and numerical order, insert and glue the pieces shown in
the illustrations. Before gluing the frames, check that they fit correctly by inserting them into the corresponding sockets of the false keel. The frames must be completely perpendicular to the
false keel so that the decks fit properly later. For this operation use white glue (Ref.19200), as an adhesive.
B and C. Use the decks to align and glue the frame pieces shown in the images. For this operation use white glue, (Ref. 19200). Next, remove the roof frames and apply filler to the joints.
When the filler has dried, sand the assemblies to even their surfaces. If you don't have a flat file, you can build one by gluing sandpaper over a piece of the slat. Then apply white paint
Anschließend weiß lackieren, (Ref.19300). You can apply the paint with a brush or with an airbrush, the latter will give the best finish.
D. Draw a longitudinal line dividing deck B1 into two halves. Begin by fitting the first veneer flush to the pencil line. Glue the plates closely together so that the seams are not noticeable. Use
white glue (Ref.19200), as an adhesive. Press the plates against the deck so that they adhere firmly. It is advisable to place a flat, heavy object on top until the glue dries. Then turn the deck
upside down and cut off the excess with a utility knife. Sand the deck down to a fine, smooth surface. Then remove any dust from sanding and apply a couple of coats of satin varnish, (Ref.
19209), sanding each time. Proceed in the same way with covers B9, B16 and D2. Lay out Covers C1, C10 and C22 on a flat surface. Position the structures you already have built to check
their fit. Next, glue the three decks together and remove the structures. Sand and line the surface obtained with the D3 sheets. Then sand and varnish the deck.
E and F. Apply white glue, (Ref. 19200), and glue the structures on the roofs. Use a flat sander to even out the tops of the frames. Use a utility knife to remove the decorations from the sheet
holding them. Place the decorations as shown in the photographs. These decorations are self-adhesive and come pre-cut. Use a flat ribbon or cotton swab to press them firmly into place.
Offer up the decks over the frame to check their fit. Then glue them as illustrated.
G. Turn the hull upside down and begin sanding starting from bow to stern. You must rough the edges of the frames but without deforming their original shape. The hull must be sanded
evenly; that is, the port and starboard side must be identical. For the middle of the hull, use a sanding block with a larger surface. Sanding must be progressive and smooth. Use a strip of
wood to check that the sanding is correct. To do so, you must slide it over the frames, to see how it fits to the shape.
H. Sand pieces H1 and H2 with fine sandpaper. Then soak them in water for about 20 minutes. Use a cylindrical object to bend the pieces little by little. You must press the part with your
fingers close together to prevent it from breaking. Use painter's tape to mask the parts and paint them white, (Ref. 19300). Then place and glue the pieces to the hull using instant glue.
I to K. Begin the hull lining using the i1 slats. If the slats are very dry and break when bending, soak them in water for about twenty minutes. This will make them flexible. Then dry them with
a cloth. You must adjust the length of the first strip and glue it with white glue between pieces H1 and H2. Look at the illustrations before proceeding. The other hull strakes must be glued to
the frames and to each other using white glue, (Ref. 19200), and nailed in place. Continue gluing strakes from bow to stern to line the entire hull. You will need to cut to size and adjust the
pieces to fit the gaps. If at any point you have a loose strake, you can apply quick-drying glue. If a strake is below the plane of the others, stick another one on top and then sand it. File the
nail heads off with a flat file until they are flush with the strakes. Glue the reinforcements K2 to K5 in the aft area of the hull. Dilute a little white glue with water to make it runnier and can seep
between the slat joints. Set aside the hull until the glue dries. This will bind the whole hull together and the skin of the hull will be unified, thus gaining strength. Then sand the entire hull. It
should be smooth and even.
L. Apply a coat of crack-filling putty to the entire surface of the hull shell plating. Once dry, sand it all down to make it smooth and even. Sand and paint pieces L1 to L4 white (Ref. 19300). Fit
and glue pieces L1 and L2 with quick-drying glue. Next, do the same process with pieces L3 and L4 and glue them onto the other side of the boat. Cut to size and glue pieces L5 to L7, then
sand to smooth.
M and N. Use masking tape to mask areas of the hull’s frame and expose the shell plating. Apply a primer to the entire surface. It is advisable to use spray, and if possible grey. This will
allow you to see possible defects in the shell plating. Sand the hull again once you’ve applied the product. Correct any imperfections with putty and repeat the process until a fine hull
remains. Apply quick glue and glue pieces M1 to M34. Use template PL-01 to identify the pieces and their position on the hull. Use piece M35 as a spacer. This piece will help you keep the
pieces parallel to each other. Afterwards, mask the hull again and apply primer. This operation will give pieces M1 to M34 a cross grain that must be sanded again. Use fine-grit sandpaper or
sanding sponge. Glue pieces N1 to N9. Use white glue (Ref. 19200) and tweezers to carry out this operation.
O to R. Make and add the pieces indicated by the images to the hull. Mask the top of the boat to protect it from the paint. Paint the hull with black paint (Ref. 19301) and set apart until dry. To
find the waterline, place the hull on a flat surface and hold it still. Use a pencil and a wooden block or similar to mark the line around the entire perimeter of the hull. Mask again and paint
reddish brown (Ref. 19308). Make and paint the O2 piece with the same colours that were used for the hull. Paint the propellers gold (Ref. 19380). Glue pieces O2 to O5 onto the hull.
Continue adding parts to the boat, some will need to be already painted. Paint the Q5 pieces ocher and glue them to the boat. To get the ocher color, mix the colors yellow, (Ref. 19306), with
a few drops of brown, (Ref. 19307), and brown, (Ref. 19308). Some pieces should be painted black, (Ref. 19301), and highlight their reliefs with silver paint, (Ref. 19382).
S to W.
Line the upper decks, sand and varnish. Build frames and fill the joints. Then paint them white, (Ref. 19300), and grey, (Ref. 19302), as shown. Add the pieces and decorations
following the indications in the illustrations and diagram PL-01. Build the four chimneys by fitting together and gluing the corresponding pieces together. Notice that there are three different
chimney sizes. Paint them black (Ref. 19301) and ochre. To get the ochre colour, mix the yellow colours (Ref. 19306) with a few drops of brown (Ref. 19307) and brown (Ref. 19308).
X to Z. Paint pieces X21 and X22 green, (Ref. 19314), and black (Ref. 19301), and darken them with brown paint, (Ref. 19307). The X23 pieces must be painted brown, (Ref. 19307). The
Y25 pieces must be painted white, (Ref. 19300), and yellow, (Ref. 19306). Pieces Y21 and Z5 must be painted white, (Ref. 19300), and red, (Ref. 19310). To make parts Z58, Z59, and Z60,
place three Z57 parts on a masking tape. Cut out and glue the figures from the template on top and cut the plates to the indicated shape. Then add parts B, and paint ocher. Complete the
boat by adding the pieces indicated by the images.
MASTS AND SPARS
In order to make up the masts the first step is to cut the rods to size, as indicated in the parts list, or by taking measurements directly from the plans, which are printed in 1/1 scale.
All of the masts and spars have to have a certain conical shape, which they will have to be given.
In order to achieve this conical shape for the masts, sand down the rod (using a sander), increasing the amount of sanding down as you get closer to the end at which you want to decrease
the diameter. Turn the rod so that you sand it down evenly on all sides, until achieving the diameter indicated in the plan.
To achieve this conical shape for the spars carry out the above operations but in this case evenly reducing the diameter at both ends of the rod.
The rods will have to be stained or painted, depending on the model that you are building.
To correctly make up the must for this model you must take into account:
-The plans
-The close-up photos of the masts and spars
-The measurements and material descriptions of the parts list
-The “PI” parts identification sheets
-Template PL-01
The masts and spars need to be varnished, while some of the parts that make them up are meant to be painted. Examine the general and close-up photos of the masts
Once the mast and spars has been assembled and varnished fix the tackle (slings, blocks, eyebolts, clump blocks, etc.) into place on the ship. The masts will have to be fully inserted into the
sockets prepared to receive them in the false keel.
SAILS AND RIGGING
In order to make up the running gear for this ship follow the alphabetic order of the images printed on the plans, indicating the order for fitting the (ropes, clump blocks, blocks, sails, etc.)
highlighted in red. In combination with the parts list this will serve as a guide with regard to the type of material to be used and the measurements.
A method for simulating the aging of the sails is to soak them in an infusion of tea, without boiling, and then leaving them to dry all wrinkled up. Fit them in place without ironing so that they
will have a certain consistency.