Nukeproof MEGA 290, Руководство пользователя, Страница: 13 / 19

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below). For example, you can select a gear
which will make pedalling easier on a hill
(make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift
the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller
gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a
larger gear at the rear. So, at the rear gear
cluster, what is called a downshift looks like
an upshift. The way to keep things straight is
to remember that shifting the chain in towards
the centreline of the bike is for accelerating
and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving
the chain out or away from the centreline of
the bike is for speed and is called an upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle
derailleur system design requires that the drive
chain be moving forward and be under at least
some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you
are pedalling forward.
Warning: Never move the shifter
while pedalling backward, nor pedal
backwards immediately after having
moved the shifter. This could jam the
chain and cause serious damage to
the bicycle.
4.D.1.B. Shifting the rear derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right
shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to
move the drive chain from one gear sprocket
to another. The smaller sprockets on the gear
cluster produce higher gear ratios. Pedalling
in the higher gears requires greater pedalling
effort but takes you a greater distance with
each revolution of the pedal cranks. The
larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios.
Using them requires less pedalling effort
but takes you a shorter distance with each
pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain
from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster
to a larger sprocket, results in a downshift.
Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a
smaller sprocket, results in an upshift. For the
derailleur to move the chain from one sprocket
to another, the rider must be pedalling forward.
4.D.1.C. Shifting the front derailleur
Typically, Nukeproof bikes do not come with a
front derailleur, but do take note this may not
be the case going forward. The front derailleur,
which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts
the chain between the larger and smaller
chainrings. Shifting the chain onto a smaller
chainring makes pedalling easier (a downshift).
Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedalling
harder (an upshift).
4.D.1.D. Which gear should I be in?
Find the “starting gear” which is right for your
level of ability - a gear which is hard enough
for quick acceleration but easy enough to let
you start from a stop without wobbling and
experiment with upshifting and downshifting
to get a feel for the different gears. At first,
practice shifting where there are no obstacles,
hazards, or other traffic, until you’ve built up
your confidence. Learn to anticipate the need
to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the
hill gets too steep. If you have difficulties with
shifting, the problem could be mechanical
adjustment. See your Authorised Nukeproof
Dealer for help.
Warning: Never shift a derailleur
onto the largest or the smallest
sprocket if the derailleur is not
shifting smoothly. The derailleur
may be out of adjustment and the
chain could jam, causing you to lose
control and fall.
4 . E . F i t B a r s
If your bike is supplied with handlebars
removed for shipping and you wish to install
yourself without the assistance of a qualified
mechanic or Authorised Nukeproof Dealer,
please use the following steps:
• Unscrew face plate bolts from stem
with a 4mm Allen Key, remove stem
face plate and bolts, set aside safely
for installing later.
• Place bars to stem, using the set-up
lines if present on your bars to position
the bars centrally. Ensure cables and
brake lines are not tangled at this
point.
• Tighten the face plate bolts to the
stem with a 4mm Allen Key, start with
the top bolts and move to the bottom
bolts. Ensure bolt torque is evenly
spread around all four bolts before
fully tightening. Reference the torque
details on the stem, if no details are
present, please consult with your
authorised Authorised Nukeproof
Dealer.
• You can adjust the roll of the bars
back or forward at this point to your
personal preference. Ensure the bars
are still centred when adjusting and
use the markings on the bars to help.
4 . E . P E D A L S
Nukeproof bicycles are not shipped with
pedals, which permits the Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer and customer to select and
install pedals appropriate for the intended
use of the bicycle. Please consult with your
Authorised Nukeproof Dealer to ensure
you have been provided all manufacturer’s
documentation for the installed pedals and
take responsibility to ensure that you have
read and fully understand all documentation
before riding any bicycle equipped with
unfamiliar pedals. In some cases, a mail
order bike may be supplied with pedals at the
Authorised Nukeproof Dealer’s discretion,
please use a local accredited mechanic to
install these pedals, if you install the pedals
yourself, please follow pedal manufactures
install instructions.
4.F.1. Pedal Install
If your bike is supplied with pedals and you
wish to install yourself without the assistance
of a qualified mechanic or Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer please use the following
steps:
• Please check with your Authorised
Nukeproof Dealer for the correct tools
to install your pedals. Typically, pedals
will need a 15mm Spanner or 6/8mm
Allen Key to install.
• Identify left and right pedals, this is
very important to ensure safe fitting.
Right pedal is for drive-side, left pedal
is for non-drive side. Pedals will have a
L (Left) and R (Right) marking. Cross-
threading pedals to cranks can lead to
failure, injury, and death. Any doubts,
please contact a qualified mechanic or
your authorised Authorised Nukeproof
Dealer.
• Before installing pedals, please
check crank threads are clean and no
damage is present.
• Grease both left and right pedal
threads.
• Align pedal threads to cranks, either
use the 15mm spanner or 6/8mm
Allen Key to turn the pedal spindle.
Turn the R (Right) pedal clockwise,
and the L (Left) pedal anti-clockwise
to tighten. If there is any resistance or
pedal is not screwing in straight, STOP
IMMEDIATELY . Ensure threads are
seated correctly before fully installing.
4.E.2. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch
the front wheel when you turn the handlebars
to steer while a pedal is in the forward most
position. This is common on small-framed
bicycles and is avoided by keeping the inside
pedal up and the outside pedal down when
making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this
technique will also prevent the inside pedal
from striking the ground in a turn.
Warning: Toe Overlap could
cause you to lose control and fall.
Ask your Authorised Nukeproof
Dealer to help you determine if the
combination of frame size, crank
arm length, tyre size, pedal design,
and shoes you choose to use
results in pedal overlap. Note that
component changes to your bicycle
(cranks, tyres, pedals) can result in
a reduction of toe-clearance; consult
your Authorised Nukeproof Dealer
about any component changes
and use caution when first riding
the bicycle following a component
change. Whether you have overlap
or not, you must keep the inside
pedal up and the outside pedal down
when making sharp turns.
4.E.3. Some bicycles come equipped with
pedals that have sharp and potentially