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low iron content if possible. During the first heating cycle the water might expand and overflow. This is normal and
will occur anytime too much water has been added.
After priming and starting the circulation pump and bleeding the heat exchanger let your boiler heat up and run for
24 hours then top off the water again. The ideal water level is at the beginning of a heating cycle for the level
indicator to be at the top of the rubber cap or higher. The water level will rise and fall during operation as water
expands and contracts with temperature changes. Be sure to keep your boiler within 3” of being full at all times
including through the summer as this will keep your boiler free from corrosion and when in use, from overheating
causing circulation pump failure.
G. Plumbing Parts Needed
1. A 1” pex crimp x 1” NPT is needed to install the outgoing pex line into the flange that is supplied and already
mounted to the lower end of the circulation pump. The flange is a female 1" NPT.
The return line must be
installed in the opposite lower corner for cross flow of the water jacket so no hot spots are created on the
firebox.
Use a valve for isolating.
2. Extra pex fittings can be purchased from your local hardware or plumber.
The pex pipe connected to the bottom of the pump runs to the house and normally runs to the heat exchanger
installed in your furnace or a plate heat exchanger for a hydronic radiant system. See page 21 for more
information on hooking up a brazed-plate heat exchanger.
3. A circulation pump comes already mounted to the boiler with a shut-off valve. Install an additional valve on the
return port so if the pump ever has to be changed, the water supply can be shut off so for easy replacement.
It is
highly recommended that you purchase a 2
nd
pump as a spare for if your pump should ever fail as your
boiler cannot function without it.
This will prevent downtime, loss of heat to your home and over-heating of
your boiler.
Please note! The pump that came with your boiler may not be the correct size for your installation.
Please consult your dealer for sizing as water flow is essential to the proper & efficient operation of your
installation.
Add a valve to the return line at the boiler so if repair or service is needed on lines or equipment, the water in the
boiler can be isolated without having to be drained.
Note:
For larger homes, 1-¼ pipe may be needed for maximum BTU output. A 1-¼” pipe can carry up to 37%
more BTUs due to higher water flow. The fittings above would need to be changed to accommodate 1-¼” Pex.
The Armstrong E9 pump available from Nature’s Comfort has the ability to do this in a 1” pipe within distance &
height limitations.
H. Adding Bypass Valves
Adding a bypass valve system at each heat exchanger is a good idea so that if there is a potential problem such
as a stopped up heat exchanger, it can be diagnosed & serviced easily by the owner as well as being used for a
summer bypass as explained on page 20 (Figure shows 3-valve setup used for bypass and isolation).
I.
Installing the Heat Exchanger in the Plenum
Note: It is recommended that you contact your local plumbing/heating contractor to supply and install the
heat exchanger unless you have the tools and experience required.
The heat exchanger must be installed below the evaporator coil if you have air conditioning. This is required
since the heat exchanger may freeze and crack when the air conditioner is used. If it is not possible to place the
heat exchanger between the furnace and the evaporator coil, you must drain the heat exchanger before using the
air conditioner. It is recommended that a bypass system of valves be installed for servicing and draining the heat
exchanger if necessary. (Noted above)
The heat exchanger must be installed so that it is airtight. No air must be able to flow around it or out of the
ductwork. Use adhesive backed foam tape (used for insulating doors and windows) around the water coil. Use
foil tape to seal off the heat exchanger and the hole you make.
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