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1. Installing the Keel, Stem

& Sternpost

The keel, stem & sternpost are laser-cut
parts. Taper the stem and install the parts
(Figure B-1). Note that the hull plan shows
several scarf joints at the stem. Two of the
joints have been eliminated with the laser-
cut parts. Also, a new scarf joint has been
added in the keel, so the laser cut keel is in
two parts. Use pins or dowels to position the
parts before gluing. Scrape off any glue
squeeze-out. Fill any gaps remaining at the
glue joints with wood filler and then sand.

2. Installing the Rudder

The rudder, a laser-cut part, can be shaped
and installed now or later. Drill the hole in the
hull for the stock. The rudder is tapered and
has a round front edge. The stock portion is
round. The length of the stock is not impor-
tant as it disappears in the wheel box on the
deck. The pintles & gudgeons can be made
from brass strip, self adhesive copper tape, or
stiff paper. See Figure B-2 for construction.

3. Drilling the Larger Holes

in the Hull

Before going any further with the details,
drill all the other large holes in the hull.
These would include two mast holes, pilot
holes in the keel for screws or pins for
mounting the model on a display base,
hawse pipe and mooring pipe holes.

4. Holes to be Drilled as

Work Progresses

There will be a other holes to drill as the
work progresses. For example, holes for
scuppers, Britannia fittings, eyebolts, and
belaying pins.

5. Installing the Waterway,

Planksheer, & Deck Planking

Waterway and Planksheer

- Along the

inside of the bulwarks , there is a waterway
plank and on top of it a planksheer. On a
real ship, the planksheer would be a single
plank going to the outside of the hull with
the bulwark stanchions going thru the plank.
However, for the solid hull model the
planksheer will be fitted in two pieces; a strip
inboard and a strip outboard. The bulwark
stanchions sit on top of the inboard strip.
Fit the waterway first. Note that the water-
way gets deeper and curves up near the bow,
so you will need to cut this from the bass-
wood sheet provided. Also, the bulwark is
sloping so the waterway needs to be carved
to fit the slope. Figure B-3 shows some sec-
tions thru the waterway and planksheer.

Deck Planks and Nibbing Strake

Note: This kit includes individual plank
strips in lieu of scored plank sheet found in

some other solid hull kits. As an option you
can purchase scored decking from Model
Shipways.
Start the planking at the centerline and work
outboard. Paint one side of each plank a
dark color to represent caulking. Careful not
to get paint on top of the plank.
Along the waterway there is a margin/nib-
bing strake, cut forward and aft to prevent a
feather edge on the planks as shown on the
deck plan. This detail is quite nice on a
model, but you could just feather the planks
into the waterway.
The nibbing strake will be a little difficult to
apply. Since you don’t know exactly where
the ends of each plank will stop, the nibbing
strake should be cut as you go. Cut the
strake where the nibs will occur as a plank
without nibs. Lay a plank, cutting the end of
the plank, then cut the nib in the strake. Or,
you could draw a line on the deck, cut the
plank ends, and cut the nibbing strake all at
once. Figure B-4 illustrates the procedure.

6. Installing Bulwark Stanchions,

Cap Rail, & Bow Rail

Install the stanchions first, then the cap rail.
The cap rail at the bow and stern where
there is a lot of curvature can be cut from the
sheet wood included in the kit. Add the bow
rail on top of the cap rail. Figure B-5 should
clarify the details.

STAGE B:

COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL STRUCTURES

FIG. B-1 KEEL, STEM & STERNPOST

FIG. B-2 RUDDER

STERNPOST

GUDGEON

WATERWAY SHAPED AT BOW AREAS

PLANKSHEER STRIP

OUTBOARD

PLANKSHEER STRIP

INBOARD

WATERWAY