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Before proceeding, iron the sails again and
be careful not to scorch them. Next, cut the
sail shape using Line A shown in the sketch.
Fold the hem, iron it flat, and sew as close
to Line B as possible. Tuck the ends and
hand stitch the comers. The sail is now
ready for stretching.
Stretching the material assures the sail’s
proper shape, since sewing may have altered
it. Using the original pattern, trace the sail’s
outline onto a piece of paper. Place the paper
on a solid but porous backing, such as a
wood or cork board. Now wash the sail again
and lay it over the outline. Stretch the wet
material to the sail’s outline’s, then secure
with stick pins through its outer edges.
When dry, the sail will have resumed its
proper shape. Iron it one more time.

Boltropes and Reef Points (Figure E-2)

Although boltropes (rope sewed to the edge
of a sail to give it strength and prevent the
fabric from ripping) can be omitted on small
scale models, they add immeasurably to larg-
er ones. The sketch shows the correct way to
sew boltropes and install reef points.

Sewing Aids

- Visit a fabric shop and pur-

chase a squeeze bottle of Fray-Chek, a light
adhesive. Running or brushing a bead along
the edge of a sail prevents the material from
unraveling. Do this before attempting to roll
the hem. Painting Fray-Chek on untreated
fabric makes cutting easier and produces a
crisp edge.
Stitch-Witchery and Wonder-Under are
heat-fusing bonding tapes that resemble thin
mat fiberglass. Stitch-Witchery comes in a
roll and is bond-sensitive on both sides. To
join two clothes, simply place a strip
between them and iron. Wonder-Under
comes in sheets with a thin paper backing on
one side. While not needed for

Newsboy

, it is

useful for bonding letters and numbers to a
scale sailboat’s sail (maybe one of your future
models). First, buy the colored fabric for the
numbers. Place the Wonder-Under sheet on
the cloth with the paper backing up. Iron the
sheet to bond it to the fabric. Next, cut out
the letters, numbers, logo, or whatever with
scissors or a sharp blade. Peel off the paper
backing, position the letter on the sail, and
iron. This technique also works for making
flags from colored fabric.

Material for Furling Sails

- A sail cut to the

original’s scale size is impossible to furl. The
fabric is usually too heavy, resulting in a
bulky furled sail. To solve this problem,
either buy a lighter material such as Silkspan
(model airplane covering tissue) or propor-
tionally reduce the size of a sail by one-third
when using sailcloth (Figure E-3). Depend-
ing on their size, even Silkspan sails may
require reducing by one-third. Test the per-
centage reduction to determine how much
fabric is needed for a tight furl. Don’t forget
to add some seams and hems, for these
details are visible even on furled sails.

Furled and Partially Furled Sails (Figure
E-4)

- Sails are often left partially furled, per-

haps for drying the sail. This is a practice
especially suited to square sails, with the sail
pulled up with their clew lines and bunt
lines. The sketch illustrates some “looks” of

furled and partially furled sails.
Note: Model Shipways has silkspan and a
balooner cotton sail cloth. Check their web
site. The balooner cloth may be a little heavy
for this model. A lighter cotton cloth would
be a better choice.

FIG. E-3 SAIL SHAPES
FOR FURLING

FIG. E-4 FURLED & PARTIALLY FURLED SAILS

FIG. E-5 SEIZINGS

FULL SAIL
PATTERN

BUNT & LEECHLINES

CLEW

GARNET

REEF

TACKLE

JIB

STAY

OUTER