4
Painting
It may seem strange to begin an instruction
manual with direction on applying the
finishes to the model. Not so! Much time
and effort can be saved and a more profes-
sional result can be obtained if the finishing
process is carried out during construction.
Proper timing in application of finishes and
the use of masking tape to define painted
edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks
and splotchy stained surfaces. In the end,
following these general suggestions will be
to your advantage.
Paint Colors:
The color scheme for
Despatch No. 9
is as
follows:
Hull Above the Waterline
- Medium Gray
Hull Bottom Below Waterline
- Dark Green
Decks
- Light Brown
Deck House, watertight doors, skylight,
masts, life ring and air vents
- Aluminum
House Border Trimmings
(top moulding
on house, engine room skylight), search
light, horn, grating at stern, inside bulwarks,
and ladders) - Red
Bitts, chocks, cleats, capstan, and towing
engine
- Black
Ventilator
- Aluminum with inside of
cowl Red
Smoke Stack
- Black with White “S”
Airport frames, Window frames. and
pilot house doors
- Dark Brown
Running lights
-
Light boxes, outside and
top of the light fixture
- Red, Aluminum
inside.
Port light glass
- Red,
Starboard
light glass
- Green
Paint:
Use a flat-finish paint. Model Shipways line
of acrylic paints are available in the recom-
mended colors. You may also purchase an
already assembled
Despatch
paint kit from
Model Expo at www.modelexpo-online.com.
Primer:
Use a grey primer (one is provided with the
Model Expo
Despatch
paint kit. The grey
color will highlight sanding scratches and
other defects better than white primer. Prime
all woodwork to be painted, and prime all
metal fittings. Lightly sand the primed
items. Use a spackling compound such as
Pic-n-Patch brand to fill any scratches and
defects, then re-prime.
Brushes & Procedures:
Use good quality soft sable or synthetic hair
artist’s brushes. A small pointed brush is
good for details. For the main hull areas, use
a 1/4" to 1/2" flat brush.
Before painting, clean the model with a tack
rag. Apply your paint in smooth and even
strokes, overlapping them as you go. Thin
the paint enough to eliminate brush strokes,
but not run. You will need three or four
coats of the light colors to cover the grey
primer and maybe only two coats of the
dark. Check your finish between coats and
sand and add spackle as necessary to get rid
of any blemishes.
You will be told how to mark the waterline
location in Stage A. At this line, and any-
where else two colors meet, use masking
tape. Electrician’s black plastic tape or any of
the hobby tapes made of plastic film are
ideal. They leave a nice edge and are not
overly sticky. Do not use drafting tape unless
it is Chart-pak brand. The edges are some-
what wrinkled and paint may run under
them. A good trick; seal the edge of masking
tape with a clear flat finish and let dry thor-
oughly. This will really prevent paint from
running under the tape.
STAGE A:
SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL
Sanding alone will not shape the hull
enough to precisely match the hull lines.
Some carving is required, especially at the
rail, keel, bow, & stern areas.
1. Using the Templates
For exact carving to hull lines, a template is
required for the hull profile and each of the
12 stations. You will find a template set
printed on heavy stock paper in the kit. Cut
the templates out carefully with a No. 11
hobby knife. Do not use scissors! You will
want a nice smooth edge.
Option-The profile template can be cut at
Station 6 to make fitting easier. Just make
sure you have the keel straight and don’t
build in a knuckle. Likewise, the station
templates can be cut at the bulwark. If you
do this, mark the width of the hull at each
station on top of the bulwark beforehand
and carve to these marks.
Note:
The profile template shows a notch
forward and one aft at the keel and stem.
These notches are where the heavy stem pipe
and the rudder skeg are glued. The notches
can be added as you carve the profile shape,
but probably better if you wait and file these
notches in when you are ready to install the
stem pipe and rudder skeg.
2. Carving the Hull
Cut a wooden block from scrap to about 3"
x 1" x 3/4" thick. Screw the block to the
deck so the model can be held in a bench
vise for carving. First, check the accuracy of
the profile and correct it as necessary, using a
long sanding block.
Next, mark the centerline, rabbet lines
(where hull meets keel) and station lines on
the model (Figure A-1). Place the station
marks on the center of the hull bottom and
on top of the rails so the marks won’t be
carved off as you work. Also, add the
breadth marks on the rail if you elected the
option noted above.
Note:
The width from the port to starboard
keel and stem rabbet is 3/32" wide from the
rail at the bow and all the way back to the
end of the keel. You will be fitting a 3/32"
wide keel strip to this flat area back to Station
10. From Station 10 to the end of the keel is
where the rudder skeg will be fitted. At the
sternpost, carve this area down also to 3/32"
wide where the stern post will be fitted.
Start carving approximately at Station 6
(maximum beam) and progress forward,
then aft, using chisels and gouges to cut
away excess wood. Avoid carving against the
grain by shifting forward or aft of Station 6
until you find a spot where you are going
with the grain. Basswood carves easily, so
you probably won’t have much problem with
the grain.
Carve very slowly and take off a little wood
at a time. Fit the templates as you go. Carve
until the template fits reasonably well, then
use sandpaper to obtain the final shape. At
first the templates will not fit very well. You
must compare the template to the hull and
visually decide where to remove wood. Cut a
little off, then re-check the template.
Finally, draw a few horizontal pencil lines
(like waterlines) and the vertical station lines
on the hull. Use these to visually check the
shape of the hull. Hold the hull at various
angles, and look to see if the pencil lines are
fair (even). If you have any unfairness, dips
or bump, they can usually be found with this
visual check. You can also use a stiff stick of
wood, about 3/32" square, and lay it on the
hull at various locations. Dips in the hull
will show up under the stick.
