1. Position the heater at the desired location on the wall as
shown in Figure 2. For maximum heating comfort, position
the heater under a window.
2. Mark the location on the wall or floor for the power supply
entry into the heater. Remove the heater from the wall and
drill appropriate hole in the wall or floor.
3. Remove the left or right junction box end cap by removing
the screw in the end of the heater and sliding the cap out-
ward from the heater (Figure 3).
4. Remove the front cover of the heater by removing the
screws in the lower corners. Pull the bottom of the cover out-
ward and lift the top of the cover off the junction box. Repeat
for the opposite end. Snap the top of the cover off the center
bracket and off the intermediate supports. See Figure 4.
5. Remove the appropriate electrical knockout from the back of
the heater or accessory if necessary. Supply wiring may also
enter the raceway through the floor or wall without using a
knockout.
6. If one or more heaters are connected to a single branch cir-
cuit, determine the total ampere load (see Nameplate), then
determine the power supply wire size and the circuit breaker
or fuse size required. (See Table 2)
7. Install the power supply wire to the heater location and ther-
mostat location as determined by the thermostat option
selected. If the power supply enters through the knockout in
back of the heater, install a cable connector (not included) on
the power supply wire and insert in knockout, leaving 6
(152mm) to 8 inches (203mm) of wire for heater connection.
8. If the power supply enters the heater through the hole in bot-
tom portion of the junction box, a cable connector is not
required.
9. Position the heater on the wall and locate wall studs. Drill,
punch, or use nail driver to put holes through the enclosure
back (above the element) at stud locations.
NOTE: The heater enclosure is provided with nail point marks
showing correct locations for mounting holes.
The following methods of mounting the heaters to com-
mon types of wall surfaces are suggested:
a. Plaster Walls: Use toggle or molly screw anchors.
b. Wall Studs: Use #12 round head screws penetrating at
least 3/4" (19mm) into stud.
c. Masonry Walls: Use #12 round head screws into lead,
plastic, or fiber expansion anchor.
Tighten all screws snugly, then back off 1/2-turn to allow the
back panel to expand and contract.
3
NOTE: ALLOW 1/8" (3mm) MINIMUM
CLEARANCE AT ENDS OF HEATER FOR
EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION
NAIL POINTS
FLOOR
Figure 2. Installation of Heater
SNAP TOP OF COVER OFF THE CENTER BRACKET/
INTERMEDIATE SUPPORTS
JUNCTION BOX
HEATER COVER
SCREW
Figure 4. Removal of Front Cover
JUNCTION
BOX
JUNCTION
BOX END
CAP
SCREW
HEATER
Figure 3. Removal of End Cap
POWER
SUPPLY
CABLE
Figure 5. Routing of Power Supply Cable
LIMIT
ELEMEN T
WIRENUT
WIRENUT
CONNECT POWER SUPPL Y TO EITHER END OF HEA TER BY REMOVING
WIRENUT AND CONNECTING HEA TER LEADS INDIVIDUALL Y TO SUPPL Y
LEADS.
(NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE PERMANENTLY CRIMPED WIRES)
Figure 6. Wiring Diagrams
Minimum
Circuit
AWG Wire
Breaker
Total
Size
or Fuse
Amps
(Copper)
Size
0 thru 12
#14
15 Amp
12.1 thru 16
#12
20 Amp
16.1 thru 24
#10
30 Amp
Table 2.
