4. Application:
On dry and porous surfaces, the base should be adhered to the wall with Mannington Commercial’s MR-101. Use a 1/8”
V- notched spreader to spread the adhesive on the back of the base to within 1/4” from the top. The adhesive should cover
90% of the back of the base. The adhesive can be spread on the wall if preferred. If using a cartridge, bead the adhesive from
the bottom to within approximately 1/4” from the top. If using a multiple hole nozzle on your cartridge, use a 2-hole nozzle for
2½” wall base, a 3-hole nozzle for 4” wall base, and a 5-hole nozzle for 6” wall base. Regardless of which method used, ensure
that 90% of the back of the base is covered with adhesive.
On any non-porous surface application, such as laminated or painted surfaces, remove the non-porous wall covering to the
height of the base to allow the base to be applied to a porous surface. If you have a non-porous surface that cannot be
removed, conduct a bond test by installing 3 pieces with the Mannington MR-101 adhesive on the non-porous surface. Let
them set for 24 hours and then check bond. If your bond is strong, proceed with the application. Mannington MR-101 can
work in some non-porous applications, but not all. Testing is necessary. If the wall or sub-floor is uneven, you may need to trim
some ends in order to correctly match the seams. Use a Standard or Sliding Compound Miter Saw, or a sharp utility knife and
cut from the front to the back.
Apply each piece of base once adhesive is administered. Use a hand-roller (or a clean rag and hand-pressure) to push into the
base and towards the starting point. This will properly join the base to the adhesive and avoid stretching.
Corners:
Miter cut pieces are available for making outside corners. If using the pre-cut corners from Mannington Commercial, install
these first. Apply adhesive and position in place, taking care to ensure a tight and even fit. Mannington Edge Effect Wall Base
Inside and Outside Corners can be fabricated utilizing the same equipment and techniques required for traditional wood
molding or baseboards. Start the job by determining the degrees of each outside and inside corner.
Outside Corners:
Position a sufficient length of wall base on the wall so that it tightly abuts the previously installed section, extending past the
corner. Using a pencil, mark the wall corner location along the top edge of the wall base. Set the saw blade angle to the
required miter angle for the corner using an angle finder. Place the wall base section against the saw fence or miter guide. The
wall base should be laying flat on the saw table with the finished surface facing upwards and perpendicular to the saw blade.
Cut the wall base to the proper miter angle. Repeat this procedure for the other side of the corner. Place the two mitered
sections of wall base on the outside corner and check for proper fit.
Trim, if necessary, to obtain a tight fit at the corner. To
obtain a tighter and more secure fit between the two mitered sections of the corner, the two mitered areas should be
glued together with a premium Contact Adhesive.
Apply the MR-101 adhesive to the back of one section of the wall base corner, position the section in place, and roll with a
hand roller to ensure proper adhesion. Apply adhesive to the back of the opposite side of the corner, position it in place, and
roll to ensure proper adhesion. Miter cut pieces are available for making outside corners.
Inside Corners:
Set the saw blade angle to the required miter angle for the corner using an angle finder. Place the wall base section against
the saw fence or miter guide. The wall base should be laying flat on the saw table with the finished surface facing upwards and
perpendicular to the saw blade. Cut the wall base to the proper miter angle. Repeat the above procedure for the other side of
the corner. Place the two mitered sections of wall base on the inside corner and check for proper fit.
Trim, if necessary, to
obtain a tight fit at the corner. To obtain a tighter and more secure fit, the two mitered areas should be glued together
with a premium Contact Adhesive, applied to both mitered edges.
Apply the adhesive to the ribbed back of one section of
the wall base corner, position the section in place, and roll with a hand roller to ensure proper adhesion to the wall surface.
Apply adhesive to the ribbed back of the opposite side of the corner and repeat. Attention should be given to ensure a tight
an even fit to the corner. Another method is to cope the inside corner by cutting a reverse miter on the material. After that,
cut along the edge of the finished face and miter with a utility knife.
You can also make your own outside corners by miter cutting the material. Miter cut your pieces at 47 degrees, rather than 45.
It allows for more forgiveness to make an aesthetically pleasing corner. For inside corners, a coping corner looks best. Mitered
inside corners are hard to fit correctly due to the wall corners often being irregular in shape and contour; however, they can
work if the building’s corners are clean and true.
Edge Effects
Installation Instructions
Choices that Work.
For more information, please contact Mannington Technical Services at
800 241 2262 Ext. 3 or visit www.manningtoncommercial.com.
December, 2015
