rudders. There are cleats near the lines to secure the rudders either
in the up or down positions. When you are steering with the rud-
ders, make sure they are fully down and well secured. If the rud-
der blades angle back, the rudder area moves aft of the pivot point,
and the loads on the steering system increase dramatically. It is
also possible to have the rudders too far forward. If the center of
pressure is ahead of the pivot point, the steering wheel will pull to
the right or left (much like a steering wheel on a car behaves when
you are backing up). Adjust the rudders to the position where
there are only small loads on the steering wheel.
There is a small adjustment screw on the leading edge of each rud-
der fitting. Turn the screw to adjust the fore and aft angle of the
rudder blades.
If steering loads are heavy, first make sure that the rudder blades
are really pulled down tight against their stops. If the blades stick
out from the rear of the boat, steering will really be difficult.
After you are sure the blades are fully down, turn the screw clock-
wise to cause the rudder to angle forward. Adjust it so that there
is very little load on the steering wheel. When underway, pull
hard on the rudder line to once again make sure that the blades are
down and against their stops.
If the rudders are angled too far to the rear, and there is too much
pressure on the rudders, you can damage the steering system.
If the steering cable system becomes inoperative, you can remove
the cable from the tiller cross bar and steer by pushing and pulling
on the tiller cross bar or on the motor pushrod that protrudes from
the deck near the motor well. (This is awkward, but you can still
get home.)
The following photo shows the rudder secured in the up position,
ready for powering or trailering.
Rudder secured in the up position.
Secure both lifting and lowering lines to keep them from getting
caught in the outboard motor’s propeller. Tighten the rudder pivot
bolt (3/8” x 2 1/2” bolt and lock nut) tight enough to prevent side-
ways movement of the rudder in the rudder head, but loose
enough to allow the rudder to be moved up and down easily.
Watch for wear on the rudder lines, and replace them as necessary.
The following photo shows the rudders in the full down position,
Rudders secured in the full down position
When you power the boat over 6 mph, or trailer the boat, make
sure the rudders are fully up, and well secured. If they fall down
under power, steering loads will increase dramatically. If they fall
down on the highway while trailering, the rudders will get a lot
shorter very quickly.
One rudder can be raised while sailing in order to reduce drag.
This should be done only in light airs when the boat is sailing
level. If the boat leans beyond 20 degrees, the windward rudder
will be mostly out of the water. If it is the only rudder down, you
will loose your steering control.
You might also check to make sure your rudders are parallel with
each other. If not, they tend to fight each other and create unnec-
essary drag. You can adjust them by judiciously bending the tiller
cross bar. Frequently check the rudder cable for corrosion. It must
move freely
HATCHES
SECURING HATCHES IN HEAVY WEATHER.
In windy
conditions, make sure all hatches are secured, so no water can get
into the boat if the boat leans over or gets buried in a wave. The
last thing you need is a boat full of water.
BOOM VANG
The optional vang is used to take the twist out of the mainsail and
is very important for good performance. The hardware is just like
the mainsheet, and attaches to the mast and boom as shown in the
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