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The temperature inside the
freezer is too cold.
• The temperature control is set too cold. Turn
the control to a warmer setting and allow
several hours for the temperature to stabilise.
• The thermostat is set to the MAX position,
which causes continuous running of the
compressor and bypasses the temperature
control.
The temperature of the external
freezer surface is warm.
• The exterior freezer walls can be warmer than
room temperature. This is normal while the
compressor works to transfer heat from inside
the freezer cabinet.
There is a popping or cracking
sound when the compressor
comes on. Does that indicate
a problem with cooling
performance?
• Metal parts undergo expansion and
contraction, just as hot water pipes. This is
normal. The sound will level off or disappear
as the freezer continues to run.
There is a bubbling or gurgling
sound, like water boiling.
• Refrigerant (used to cool the freezer) is
circulating throughout the system. This is
normal.
There are vibrations; what is
causing them? How can I stop
the vibrations?
• Check to ensure that the freezer is on a level
surface.
• The floor is uneven or weak. The freezer rocks
on the floor when it is moved slightly. Be sure
your floor can adequately support the freezer.
• Put a piece of metal or timber underneath
parts of the freezer to level it.
• The freezer is touching the wall. Re-level the
freezer and move it away from the wall.
Moisture forms on the inside
freezer walls.
• Hot and humid weather increases the internal
rate of frost build-up. This is normal.
• The lid is slightly open.
• The lid is kept open too long, or is opened too
frequently. Open the lid less often.
• The lid is not sealed properly.
Moisture forms on the outside of
the freezer.
• The lid is slightly open, causing cold air from
inside the freezer to meet warm, moist air
from the outside.
The lid will not close properly.
• The freezer is not on a level surface.
• The gasket is dirty.
• The storage basket is out of position.
FAQs and Troubleshooting Guide (Cont.)