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5

Making the worktop recess

The cut-out  is produced in two work steps.
1. Make the opening for the base trough.
2. Making the recess for the support of the glass ceramic hob.

(For this recess at least one recessing machine with guide
strip is required.)

The outside dimension of the recess should always be about
6 mm longer than the outside dimension of the glass ceramic hob
so that a seal can be provided (see: “Gluing in the hob”).

Alternatively, instead of carrying out the second stage, the
support of the glass ceramic hob can be cut out completely and
then glued in again with the height adjusted. 
It is also possible to install strips of wood or stone as well as steel
angles.
1. Make the opening for the hob.
2. Fix the strip of wood or stone or the supporting angle onto

the worktop.  

With a stone worktop the glass ceramic hob can be inserted
completely flush. The recess must therefore be about 5

-0.5

 mm

deep.
With wooden worktops the recess must be 4

-0,5

 mm deep. The

resultant protrusion of the glass ceramic hob compared with the
worktop of min. 1 mm serves to protect the plastic surface of the
worktop, preventing a hot saucepan from being unintentionally
placed on it.

Note!

In order to ensure that it is exactly flush with the stone worktop,
the recess may have to be modified accordingly.

Gluing in the hob

Instructions

• In order to avoid damage to the worktop and the hob, it is

necessary to glue the system worktop/hob with a permanent
seal so that it is water-proof.

• The parts to be glued together must be dry and free from

grease.

• In order to glue the hobs you will need the 

resistive primer 101

and the heat-resistant and moisture-resistant 

silicon adhesive

Pactan 7056

 produced by 

Heidelberger Baustofftechnik

,

which is also available from the Küppersbusch spare parts
service. 

It is absolutely necessary to observe the remarks
concerning these two products. You will find them
enclosed processing indications! 

There you will also find a calculation formula for the hardening
of the silicone adhesive. 

Do not operate the cooking zone

before the hardening process is over as otherwise the
silicone adhesive can be damaged.

• Only glue the hob on its outer edges!

• With stone worktops installation is to be flush, with heat-

sensitive worktops (e.g. wood) the hob must project about
1 mm.

• Never place the hob with the glass ceramic surface

unprotected on the worktop or the floor. Dirt (metal chips, small
pieces of stone etc.) can cause scratches in the surface of the
glass ceramic hob. Please always place it on cardboard or a
wool rug.

Procedure

1. Glue the sealing tape   onto the corner of the supporting

edge of the worktop so that no silicone adhesive   can be
pressed under the hob.
Important! Only use the sealing tape that is supplied with the
hob! Should you use any other sealing there is no guarantee
that the hob will not sink down after installation.

2. Insert the hob without adhesive into the worktop opening and

check the height. If necessary, place the shims provided on
the support edge for the hob at equal distances to adjust the
height.

3. Remove the hob again.
4. Use the water-proof primer to pre-treat the outer edges of the

hob and the side cut surfaces of the worktop where they
have been glued. 
Apply a thick coat of the primer with a brush on highly
absorbent surfaces (e.g. chipboard). With less absorbent
surfaces (e.g. marble or granite) it is sufficient to apply the
primer with a felt cloth.
Important! After application, the primer must be left for about
30 minutes.

5. Now insert the hob and align.
6. Finally, fill the gap between the hob and the worktop with

Pactan .

7. Smooth the joint with a spatula and water containing a little

washing-up liquid.

Attention: Use sealing tape! Pactan   must not get under the
support surface. If this occurs it will not be possible to remove the
hob again at a later stage. No liability will be assumed in the case
of failure to observe these instructions.

4 - 5 

-0,5

+1,0

4

4 - 5 

-0,5

+1,0

4

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