Your speaker cabinet should be equipped with a quality brand input jack. We prefer and use the
Switchcraft
#11 mono input on our cabinets, amplifiers and vintage repairs. Many vintage
speaker cabinets from the 1960’s to 1970’s used the #11 jack. It is reliable, solid and time
tested. Many modern made brand speaker cabinets use the Switchcraft
#11, but not all. Some
manufacturers have their speaker jacks panel mounted on the back of their cabinets which
incorporate an internal circuit board on which the jacks are soldered. This type of system is not
designed for a type #11 jack, and conversion to the #11 can be very tedious. All electrical work
should be performed by a professional and knowledgeable technician.
We also strongly urge you to inspect and make sure that all of your internal speaker cabinet
wire leads are soldered at the speaker jack and soldered at the speaker terminals. We
do not
recommend using the
"
slide on
"
type gripping speaker wire terminals. These grip type terminals
loosen over time causing an interruption or failure of the signal. These recommendations help
guarantee a solid,
un-interrupted signal
from the amplifier to the speakers at all times.
Please note
:
Komet
Amplification recommends using resistive load attenuation devices
in
conjunction with any Komet
amplifier and speaker cabinet. Please see our website
for further information on the Komet
Airbrake
attenuator. The Komet
Airbrake
owner’s manual is also located at the end of this manual.
TROUBLESHOOTING
When troubleshooting a problem, we recommend that you remove all effects pedals and only go
direct with your guitar and guitar cable into the amplifier. Also, remove any attenuation device
from your amplifier to speaker cabinet signal chain. This way you can easily and quickly rule
out or discover if your amplifier is the source of the problem.
Pilot Light Not On
:
Check to see if the amplifier’s AC cable is plugged in at wall and plugged in at the IEC
connection on the back panel of the amp. Make sure the DIN AC cable plug is securely inserted
into the IEC AC input connection, and pushed in all the way.
Check the type
47
pilot light bulb. It may be burned out. For bulb replacement, gently turn the
jewel lens cap counterclockwise and remove. Using the tips of your fingers, gently push and
turn the exposed bulb counterclockwise, extract bulb and replace.
Note
: your amplifier will
continue to operate with no problem with a shorted bulb or with no bulb at all.
Check the
2
amp
"
slow blow
"
AC supply
"
Mains
"
fuse to see if it is blown. Replace the blown
fuse with a new
2
amp
"
slow blow
"
(a.k.a. MDL 2A 250V)
or a
1
amp
"
slow blow
"
for a 240V
model.
ALWAYS -
make certain that your AC power cable is unplugged when replacing any
fuse.
Copyright 1999-2017, Komet
Amplification. Group, L.L.C. May not be reproduced in any form without express written consent from Komet
Amplification.
