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If you experience
Possible Causes
Solution
The motor seems to run
too much. (cont.)
The door(s) are opened too frequently
or for too long.
Warm air entering the refrigerator causes it to run more. Open
the door less often.
The refrigerator door or freezer
drawer is ajar.
Make sure the refrigerator is level. See “Refrigerator Leveling and
Door Closing” section. Keep food and containers from blocking
the door.
The refrigerator control is set too
cold.
Adjust the refrigerator control to a less-cold setting until the
refrigerator temperature is as desired.
The door or drawer gasket is dirty,
worn, or cracked.
Clean or change the gasket. Leaks in the door seal will cause
the refrigerator to run longer in order to maintain desired
temperatures.
The lights do not work.
Your refrigerator is equipped with
LED lighting which does not need to
be replaced.
If there is power to the refrigerator and the lights do not
illuminate when a door or drawer is opened, call for service
or assistance.
Doors have been open longer than
10 minutes.
Close the doors and drawer to reset and open to resume
lighted task.
The door switch is not sensing the
door opening.
Ensure there are no magnets or electronic devices within
3" (7.6 cm) of the hinge cover.
The Temperature Control
UI does not turn on
The door switch is not sensing the
door opening.
Ensure there are no magnets or electronic devices within
3" (7.6 cm) of the hinge cover.
Unusual Noise
To listen to normal refrigerator sounds, go to the Product Help/FAQ section of the brand website and search for “normal sounds.”
Below are listed some normal sounds with explanations.
The refrigerator seems
noisy.
The compressor in your new
refrigerator regulates temperature
more efficiently while using less
energy and operates quietly.
Due to this reduction in operating noise, you may notice
unfamiliar noises that are normal.
Sound of the compressor
running longer than
expected
High-efficiency compressor and fans
Larger, more-efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more
energy efficient speeds.
Pulsating/Whirring
Fans/compressor adjusting to
optimize performance during normal
compressor operation
This is normal.
Popping
Contraction/expansion of inside
walls, especially during initial
cooldown
This is normal.
Hissing/Dripping
Flow of refrigerant or flow of oil in the
compressor
This is normal.
Vibration
The refrigerator may not be steady.
Adjust the leveling screws and lower the leveling foot firmly
against the floor. See “Refrigerator Leveling and Door Closing”
section.
Rattling/Banging
Movement of the water lines against
the refrigerator cabinet or of items
placed on top of the refrigerator
cabinet
Move excess water line away from the refrigerator cabinet or
fasten excess tubing to the cabinet. See “Connect the Water
Supply” section or remove items from the top of the refrigerator.
Sizzling
Water dripping on the heater during
Defrost cycle
This is normal.
Water running/Gurgling
May be heard when ice melts during
the Defrost cycle and water runs into
the drain pan
This is normal.
Buzzing and clicking
Heard when the water valve opens
and closes to dispense water and/or
fill the ice maker
If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If
the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn off the ice
maker.
Repetitive clicking
Dual evaporator valve regulating the
cooling operation
You may hear rapid repetitive clicking sounds as the unit
switches from cooling one compartment to cooling the other.
This sound is normal.
First try the solutions suggested here or visit our website at
www.kitchenaid.custhelp.com
.
TROUBLESHOOTING