Kingfisher 3125 GFX OFFSHORE, Руководство пользователя

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Identifying and Managing Corrosion
After every voyage you must pay special attention to
the overall cleanliness of your vessel. No different than
storing your gear and hanging items to dry, there is a
need to clean off the saltwater that has come into contact
with your vessel during your outing. A thorough freshwater
wash down is an effective way to reduce the risk of
corrosion, which could require extra maintenance in the
future Places like under your cutting board, aft helm,
and nylon downrigger mounts are examples of points
of contact that aren’t meant to be watertight and should
always be well rinsed with fresh clean water after every
use. For best results, an initial quick heavy mist well help
loosen the dried salt crystals. Follow this up with a heavy
rinse working from the top down, putting extra spray into
areas with tight contact points that have little chance of
drying up quickly on their own
Bilge compartments must also be kept as clean as
possible by flushing with fresh water every time you return
to dock Make sure all internal drain-ways are free from
scum build-up and loose debris If you notice a white
powder forming in crevasses it’s a sign this area has
been overlooked in previous cleaning attempts. Clean this
powder with a stainless tooth brush so the aluminum can
once again form a new oxide layer This type of corrosion
will require immediate attention to stop further growth and
should not be delayed
Chipped paint from stones while trailering, or a scratch
from a loose deck board, will also have a negative effect
when in contact with saltwater Exposed aluminum in your
paint finish will allow moisture in between the paint and
hull This will cause paint to blister and peel It is important
to seal any exposed areas to prevent corrosion forming
and spreading
Blistering and peeling paint around fasteners and
fittings or chalky white powder is a sign that galvanic
corrosion may be taking place These are areas not
properly rinsed from previous trips or areas where
movement of a loosened fastener has allowed water to
enter and make contact between the stainless fastener
and bare aluminum. This component must be removed
and the corrosion must be eliminated by light sanding
at a minimum The affected area will then need to be
recoated with matching paint The component should
then be reinstalled using the “New Component Installation
Instruction” sheet.
Sacrificial Anodes and Galvanic Protection
Depending on which model and options you have selected
your boat may be equipped with sacrificial anodes and a
galvanic protection device.
A galvanic isolator is present on all models equipped
with a minimum 30A shore power system and is installed
just after the vessel’s shore power connection. Signals
can pass through this galvanically isolated circuit, but
stray currents such as differences in ground potential or
currents induced by AC and DC power are blocked
Sacrificial anodes on your vessel are part of your cathodic
protection system The anode is made from a metal alloy
with a more “active” voltage than the surrounding metal
it is protecting The difference in potential between these
two metals means that the sacrificial anode material
corrodes in preference to the surrounding area it is
protecting
Anodes do require maintenance to keep them at their
peak effectiveness. Repeated cleanings throughout the
season with a wire brush may be required to remove any
buildup that may form
The anodes on your vessel should be inspected and
cleaned every two months. You should change your
anodes after it has corroded to half its original size or
when you’ve accumulated twelve months of immersion in
saltwater When anodes are cleaned or replaced, it must
also be verified that they have good continuity with the
hull This is an easy step by using a multi-meter set to the
ohms scale
New Sacrificial Anode Anode Needing Replacement
3125
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3425 OWNERS MANUAL KINGFISHER BOATS 15