-16-
Model h7507 (Mfg. since 3/05)
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figure 22. determining fence thickness from
router bit dimensions.
11. Make a 28" long fence that is 2
3
⁄
4
" tall.
the fence thickness is determined by the
largest size router bit you will use. a 1
1
⁄
2
"
thick fence works well for most router bits.
ultimately, the fence must be thick enough
to accommodate the portion of the router bit
behind the front fence surface. to determine
this, subtract the cutting depth from the router
bit diameter, then add
1
⁄
4
" (see
figure 22).
Make sure you properly square up all sides of
your fence. (if you regularly experience snipe
from squaring your boards with your planer
and jointer, make the fence 4" longer and cut
off the end with the snipe after squaring the
board up.)
13. Face plane approximately
1
⁄
16
" off of the
fence board that will be the infeed fence. the
amount of material removed in this step will
control your depth of cut.
Removing more than
1
⁄
16
" from the infeed
fence may greatly increase the risk of kick-
back injury when routing.
— if you are using a router bit that will remove
the entire face of the workpiece, as illus-
trated in
figure 24, continue with Step
13.
12. Cut your fence in half. one side will be the
infeed fence and the other side will be the
outfeed fence.
— if you are using a router bit that will not
remove the entire face of your workpiece,
as illustrated in
figure 23, then skip ahead
to
Step 14.
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figure 23. typical routing operation for partial
face removal of workpiece.
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figure 24. typical routing operation for full face
removal of workpiece.
14. if not already done so, properly mount your
router with the installed router bit on the
router table. refer to
Mounting Router on
page 13 for instructions.
15. Mount the table saw fence to the left of the
router bit and move the fence so the support
board is next to the router bit.
Attaching the fence faces incorrectly during
the next step may increase the risk of kick-
back or other serious personal injury during
routing operations.
