Great Central Models Robinson GCR Class 8B Atlantic LNER C4, Инструкция по сборке

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Page 5 GCR Class 8B
Page 5 GCR Class 8B
The part numbers and descriptions (where space permits) are half etched on the frets as near to the parts as sensible and match
the description that appears in the Parts List. These annotations will appear in the form “212”, or “223,224” or 213-217” or 218-
225+3”. Where something like “212EM” appears on the fret then that is the EM version of a part that will also have a P4
(unlabelled) part on the fret. Where the “+” appears in the part number it shows that additional parts have been included and
the number following shows that 3 additional parts are on the fret. This allows for two possibilities
a) losing very small parts in the carpet after cutting them from the fret
b) practising the assembly in cases where some difficulty may be expected
Also on the fret there are a couple of blocks on which to practice your skill at pushing out rivets. Try these first to test the
consistency of your efforts. Refer to photographs to check if these parts were actually riveted early in life, Robinson abhorred
‘proud’ rivets and there is some photographic evidence to show that they may not have been used in the early days, even at the
bottom of the smoke box.
The instructions also use the Part Number and Full Description. This may seem a little pedantic but can help where there may be
some uncertainty. I also list
all parts separately and do not group sets of parts together (i.e. Springs Qty 7) so that you will find
the parts list will show each layer in a built up assembly as an individual item.
Assembly Instructions
You may also find it easier to drill out all the locating holes while the parts are still within the main etch, and even to assemble
some of the parts together - simply because this helps to hold at least one of the parts firmly in place.
Do not use force at any time, you are likely to bend the parts beyond repair. The tabs and slots are designed to be a semi-tight
fit and on occasion a little easing with a strip of wet & dry sandpaper may be needed, especially on the slots in the smaller parts.
If needed, where parts fit into a slot, very lightly dress the mating edges with a fine file. Most slots are 2 mm long and the edge
strips on the etches may be used to ease them out a little if needed.
Unless otherwise stated, the folds are all done with the half etch on the inside.
TAGS are on the fret and hold the individual parts in place when the fret is etched. TABS are on the parts to fit into SLOTS in the
corresponding parts. In many areas on the fret TAGS have been arranged so that they fit onto TABS solely to help minimize any
possible damage to the component when the TAGS are removed since the TABS will all in the end be invisible.
Do not confuse TAGS and TABS and file off any TABS !
It may be easier to do a number of preparatory jobs before removing parts from the main etches. There are a few rivets that
may have to be pushed through from the rear of some parts, such as the main frames. The smoke box wrapper was flush riveted
when built but as the LNER super-heated the locomotives they would normally have been replaced by the usual, highly visible
rivets. Front buffers sometimes had rivets added after superheating but not necessarily at the same time. The smoke box
wrapper may also have had further rivets added as well as the smoke box front around the door, which seemed to have
happened in the late 1930s and early 1940s.
As always, if you are really keen on authenticity then the best thing to do is to examine a photograph of the engine you are
modelling.
Decision time
The kit has been designed to use frame spacers that approximate to the frames on the original engines, which means that
stiffeners are also added to the inside and outside of the frames. Should you decide that adding these scale spacers is a step too
far since they will be almost invisible then alternative spacers are included for P4 and EM. Or the builder may decide to provide
his own set of spacers, especially if there are concerns about side play for small radii curves.
Cosmetic spring mechanisms are provided. These are removable using screws for those of us who like to be able to remove the
wheel sets easily.
Sufficient parts are included to make this kit to either P4 or EM standards. Because the EM wheel back-to-back is a little smaller
than P4, the spacers for EM are narrower and the frames will not have the distinctive kink at 4’ 0” from the front of the frame.
Do not mix up the P4 and EM parts since you will find there a world of pain. Remember that EM parts are identified on the fret
with a suffix ‘EM’ after the Part Number.
The kit as designed will go around a 1250 mm radius curve before the bogie wheels hit the frames. A tighter turning circle will
mean that the bogie frames have to be cut back to allow the bogie wheels further side play and they are half-etched on the
inside as a guide. Note also that for something like a 1000 mm radius that the rear inside of the cylinders will need trimming.