© Gooligum Electronics 2015
www.gooligum.com.au
Baseline and mid-range PIC training and dev board operation guide
Page 3
It is often easiest to build up a PCB by starting with the lowest-profile components, and working your way
up in height – orienting them as shown in the overlay.
Be careful in particular with the orientation of the LEDs – although the anode lead is usually the longest,
this is not always the case. It is safer to align the flat side of the case with the flat side of the overlay
symbol (indicated the cathode).
The kit includes one green, one yellow and seven red LEDs. You can distribute these however you wish,
but the colour scheme used in the prototype is green on
GP0
, yellow on
GP1
and red on the rest.
The integrated circuits (74HCU04 and 555 timer) can be soldered directly to the PCB, in the positions
marked IC1 and IC2 – taking care that the orientation is correct, with the notch on the IC (if any) aligned
with the notch in the overlay symbol, and pin 1 (sometimes marked by a dot on the IC) immediately to the
left of the notch. If you prefer to use IC sockets, that’s ok, but you will need to supply them yourself.
DO NOT use the supplied IC sockets for IC1 or IC2. These are to go in positions U1 and U2, to be used
to mount the PICs that you will later use with this board.
Note that although the PCB overlay shows ‘BC337’, BC547 or BC548 transistors may have been supplied
with your kit. That’s ok – they’ll all work fine in this application (driving the 7-segment displays) and
have the same pin-out. Whichever type of transistor was supplied, you should orient them as shown on
the overlay.
The 7-segment displays should be oriented with the decimal point in the lower right of each digit.
The jumper headers may have been supplied as a 32-pin single-row header, a 9-pin single-row header, and
19-position dual-row header. If so, they must be snapped (using pliers) into a number of smaller header
blocks:
1 × 1×32-pin → 16 × 1×2-pin
1 × 1×9-pin → 3 × 1×3-pin
1 × 2×19-pin → 1 × 2×3-pin, 1 × 2×4-pin, 1 × 2×6-pin and 3 × 2×2-pin
Although the headers are a similar height to the LEDs, it is generally easiest to install them first, before
installing the LEDs.
When you have soldered all the components to the PCB, peel the backing from the four rubber feet and
attach them to the underside of the PCB, close to each corner.
You should also remove the paper backing from the solderless breadboard and attach it to the PCB, in the
position shown in the overlay.
The supplied hook-up wire is used to make connections on the breadboard – you should put it aside and
cut it into suitable lengths (with the insulation stripped from each end) as needed, later. Of course, if you
already have a collection of breadboard jumper wires, feel free to use those instead!
The header shunts should also be put aside to use later, when you configure the training board for each
lesson.
