36
37
M
inor r
epairs
Removing the rear wheel
If your bike features so-called drop-out slots, removing the
rear wheel can be done in no time. If your bicycle has chain
tensioners, however, you must perform a number of additional
actions. Using a screwdriver, you remove the rear cap of the chain
case. This is described on page 40.
If your bike is fitted with a Sram 3 or a Sturmey-Archer gear hub,
you can detach the hub by loosening the link between the cable
and chain (S) (fig. 81).
If you have a 5 or 7-gear hub of the type Sram Spectro, or a
Shimano Nexus 3-gear hub, you can remove the gear unit from
the hub axle using bolt (A) (fig. 82).
Now loosen the nuts of the wheel axle, the chain tensioners (K)
and the brake arm (R). Subsequently, push the wheel forwards
to the end of the slot. Now you can remove the chain from the
sprocket. If you then pull the wheel backwards, you can let it drop
out of the frame (figs. 83 and 84).
If you want to put the rear wheel back into the frame, follow
the above instructions in the reversed order. For the correct
adjustment of the gear hub, we refer you to the instructions in
the chapter “Maintenance and inspection”, on pages 24 through 27.
If your bike is fitted with a 4, 7 or 8-gear hub by Shimano, the
rear wheel is removed in a somewhat different way. You start
by removing the back cap of the chain case. See page 40 for
instructions.
If you release the shifter cable at the bottom bracket and down
tube, you can pull back the rear wheel about five centimetres.
Now loosen the nuts of the wheel axle (M), the chain tensioners
(K) and the brake arm bracket. Then push the wheel forwards
to the end of the slot and remove the chain from the sprocket.
Subsequently pull the wheel backwards to be able to let it drop
out of the frame (figs. 83 and 84).
If you turn the locking plate (B in fig. 85) to the left, you can
remove the gear-shift unit. This must be done in first gear. Don’t
loosen the gear-shift unit cable during removal or the correct
adjustment will be lost. To put back the rear wheel, follow the
above instructions in the reverse order. When replacing the gear-
shift unit, make sure that the yellow marker dots on the hub
and the gear-shift unit line up with one another.
Repairing the lights
If the light doesn’t work, the problem is most likely in the wiring.
It might be that a wire is broken. It might also be that the
connections have become loose. Your Gazelle has a two-wire
system, by the way. This means that the frame doesn’t act as the
earth.
A black/white wire runs from a fixed point in the front light to a
fixed point on the front fork or the dynamo. If the wiring is in order,
the light bulb is probably broken. To replace the light bulb you first
need to disassemble the headlight. Undo the screw on the bottom
side of the light. Now you can remove the light’s glass cover with
reflector (fig. 86).
You can remove the halogen bulb by turning it to the left. Then
place a new halogen bulb in the fitting. Subsequently you can
place back the light fitting and glass and retighten the screw. If the
lighting still doesn’t work, check the wiring of the dynamo. Further
on in this chapter you can read more about this.
If a headlight with one or more LEDs fails to work, first check the
batteries or the battery contacts of the dynamo. If these are all in
working order and the LED lighting still doesn’t function the defect
might be located in the electronics. To fix this, you have to go to
the Gazelle dealer.
81
82
84
85
86
83
Beware not to touch a halogen
bulb with your bare hands. It can
be very hot. In addition, halogen
bulbs cannot withstand the action
of substances on your fingers.
Always use a cloth or plastic cap
to hold new halogen bulbs.
A
S
K
R
B
K
M
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