Now we take a break from the norm. Usually you’d do some testing before boxing up your circuit. In
this case there are only six connections to make offboard, and they’re the same connections you’d
have to make to test the circuit as to actually complete it, so let’s go ahead and make them neat.
NOW we get to place those LEDs too. Pull the LEDs through the board (long leg to round pad), and
bend the legs slightly so they don’t fall out. Get your jacks and DC socket in place and tightened.
Now drop your two circuit boards into place and tighten things up. Connect your jack and DC wires
(there’s a diagram on the next page if it needs to be clearer than the pic below). Of course, your DC
socket will be on the correct side of the enclosure. Oops!
You can now get your LEDs in place. Unbend the legs and push them down to locate into their
holes in the enclosure. Once seated, solder them in. Simple! No need for bezels.
WHY IS THERE AN EXTRA PAD FOR THE ‘OCTAVE’ FOOTSWITCH LED...?
You can use a bi-colour LED in there if you want, i.e. green for normal, red for octave.
Use a common-anode LED. We like to keep it simple around here though, so a standard LED is supplied.
