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General Notes
The power and signal pads on the
PCB conform to the FuzzDog
Direct Connection format, so can
be paired with the appropriate
daughterboard for quick and easy
offboard wiring
Be very careful when soldering the
LED, diodes, transistors and
voltage regulator (IC3). They’re
very sensitive to heat. You should
use some kind of heat sink
(crocodile clip or reverse action
tweezers) on each leg as you
solder them. Keep exposure to
heat to a minimum (under 2
seconds).
You should use
sockets for IC1+2, or be super
careful not to overheat. Take
your time.
Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can be mounted flush in the box.
Positive (anode) leg of the electrolytic capacitors go into the square pads. Negative leg (cathode) of
the diodes go into the square pads.
C11 can be laid flat across the top of the adjacent resistors to ensure plenty of clearance when
mounting in the enclosure. See front cover image.
Pots mount on the back side of the board. You can use vertical-mount pots or just wire up ‘normal’
ones. It’s a good idea to place the pots in their holes in the enclosure when you’re soldering them in
place on the PCB. That way you know they’re going to line up ok. Best way to do it is to solder a
single pin of each pot in place, then do a visual check to see that they’re all sitting at the same
height. If not, melt the joints and readjust any that are off.
If your pots don’t have protective plastic covers you
should place a strip of thick card between them and the
board when soldering to keep them a good distance from
the pcb to avoid shorting other components.
You should solder all other board-mounted components
before you solder the pots. Once they’re in place you’ll
have no access to much of the underside of the board.
The bottom of your board should look like this >>>>>>
The circuit is very sensitive to input. You’ll have to tweak
the bias and sensitivity pots to get it set just right for
each individual guitar. It’s the nature of the beast.