9
The following table represents some of the most common technical support questions we receive. Before calling
us, please read thoroughly to see if your question or problem is addressed.
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
SOLUTION
Water heater is not heating at all
(water is flowing but the unit is not
heating -‐ the outgoing water
temperature is the same as the
cold water supply) -‐ the digital
display does NOT light up.
No power or incorrect
wiring.
Make sure the breakers at main electrical panel are ON. You
may have a faulty breaker or unit may be wired incorrectly.
Flow rate is too low /
water pressure is too
low.
Your water heater has an activation flow rate of approximately
0.3 GPM. If your water flow rate is less than this level, your unit
will not activate. Increase the flow rate.
Water heater is not heating at all
(water is flowing but the unit is not
heating -‐ the outgoing water
temperature is the same as the
cold water supply) The digital
display DOES light up.
Internal part failure.
Please call us for technical assistance.
Water heater is heating but the
water temperature is not hot
enough.
User temperature
setting too low.
Turn up the temperature setting on the unit.
Flow rate is too high.
Depending on your incoming water temperature and the power
output of your model, your water flow rate may exceed the
physical heating capacity of your water heater. Reduce the flow
rate by installing an Eemax Flow Regulator. Use the chart in
section 6 to find out which flow regulator works best for your
particular model.
Crossed wires.
If it’s a new installation, have your electrician double check the
wiring. Is possible that the wiring is incorrect.
Voltage less than 240
volts.
The heating elements on your water heater are design for 240
volts. When used with a lower voltage, they produce less
heating power. You may need to upgrade to a larger model.
Mixing too much cold
water.
You do not need to mix as much cold water with your tankless
water heater compared to when you use a conventional water
heater. You may also have an anti-‐scald feature on your faucet
that is mixing cold water. These types of faucets can usually be
adjusted to reduce the amount of cold water mixed.
The water temperature at the
faucet is less than the temperature
setting of my water heater.
Voltage less than 240
volts.
The computer chips in your tankless water heater are
programmed with the expectation that your incoming line
voltage is 240 volts. If you have less than 240 volts, it may affect
the reading on your water heater’s digital display and cause it to
read slightly higher than the actual output temperature. To
compensate for this, increase the setting on your water heater if
you need / want hotter water.
Anti-‐Scald
pressure/balancing
valve or tempering
valve.
Your faucet may have an anti-‐scald feature or a tempering valve
that automatically mixes cold water even when you turn your
control lever or handle to full hot. These devices are usually
adjustable so you can turn off the cold mix completely. You can
compensate for this by increasing the setting on your water
heater if you need/want hotter water.
Thermal loss due to
long pipe run
As the hot water from the heater runs through the hot water
delivery system to your faucet, some heat will be lost especially
if it has long distance to travel or the pipes are cold. This is
normal. You can compensate for this by increasing the setting on
your water heater if you need/want hotter water.
