DZ HT-7, Инструкция по сборке, Страница: 14 / 44

Page 14
Refer to Pictorial 1 for the fol ‐
lowing steps.
( ) Load and solder the two mono
minijacks, J1 and J2, where
shown. Be sure they lie flat
against the board. Be careful
not to damage the plastic
bodies with the soldering
iron. Note that two of the
tabs extending into the holes
in the board are plastic, so
do not apply solder to these.
( ) Load and solder RV1, the vol ‐
ume control. Be sure that it
lies flat against the board.
( ) Load and solder the BNC con ‐
nector. Be sure it lies flat
against the board.
( ) Load and solder the 2 ‐ pin
right ‐ angle connector at J4.
This connector mounts to the
bottom of the board and ex ‐
tends out into the opening.
( ) Load and solder D3, the large
1N5404 rectifier. Insert the
side with a band (the cath ‐
ode) into the square pad with
the part oriented vertically.
Bend the anode lead down and
into the other hole. Solder
both leads and clip excess
lead length.
( ) Load and solder RV2, the 10K
trimpot. Clip excess lead
length.
( ) Load and solder T1, the 6 ‐ pin
DIP transformer. The pin
marked with a dot must go
into the square pad.
( ) Load and solder the seven
crystals, Y1 ‐ Y7. Be sure they
lie flat against the board.
It does not matter which side
the lettering goes on, but
most builders prefer to line
them up so that the text
reads the same on all crys ‐
tals. Clip excess lead
lengths after soldering.
( ) Insert 3” of bare wire into
the holes just below the “Y1”
and “Y7” text to the right of
the crystals. Place it so
that you can solder it to the
top of all the crystals. Sol ‐
der the two ends, then solder
it to the top of each crys ‐
tal. Do not use any more heat
than necessary.
( ) Load and solder the 330 uF
electrolytic capacitor (C12).
Be sure the black stripe is
on the side with the round
pad. The longer lead is the
positive lead, and it goes in
the hole with the square pad
(also marked with a “+” on
the silkscreen).
( ) Load and solder the 470uF ca ‐
STEP-BY-STEP ASSEMBLY - HT-7-2 Board