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smoke is created; e.g. as a result of wood that is too moist, an
insufficient supply of air or a poor draught in the flue duct.

3.1.1 Wood quantity

Please observe the maximum amount (quantity AND size) of
wood blocks, as indicated in the following table. Using a larger
amount will increase the heat delivery. This means the stove
could be overloaded, as a result of which parts could become
damaged and/or the walls of the stove discoloured. If the stove
is burning too vigorously use a coarser/harder type of wood.

Table 1: Allowed fuel volume

1 kg of dry firewood will deliver approx. 4 kWh of energy.
In the installation manual you can see the output of your stove in
appendix 2, Data plate.

3.1.2 Suitable types of wood

The following types of wood are recommended for burning on
your stove:
-

Hardwood like oak, beech and wood from fruit trees. These

types of wood give a short flame and will burn for a long

time;
-

Light types of wood like birch, poplar, willow and alder-

wood. These types of wood give a long flame, but burn

rather

quickly.

Coniferous wood or pinewood. Only use this wood in a fire

that is already burning well. Otherwise, you will get deposits

in the flue; it is not really suitable for open fires, because of

sparking. Pinewood is often used as kindling.

Wood briquettes (compressed wood chips);

3.1.3 Unsuitable fuel

The following materials are not suitable for your stove. Please
never use:
-

Wet or fresh wood. It is hard to start your stove using this

wood and it produces little heat;

Painted, stained or impregnated wood. These chemicals are

bad for the environment and also affect the wood stove’s

pane;
-

Multi-plywood and chipboard;

Types of coal like anthracite, coke or ovoids. These are only

suitable for burning on a coal stove;

- Printed (coloured) paper from magazines. A ball of

newspaper can be used for lighting the stove;

- Combustible fluids. These should never be used for lighting
the

stove;

- Plastic, textiles and other waste materials. Remember, no

stove is capable of burning everything!

3.2

Ventilation

Combustion requires air. A wood burning stove uses about
35 m

of air per hour; an open stove uses about 150-200 m

of air per hour. A lack of fresh air in houses with a mechanical
air extraction system and/or the use of the cooker hood in an
open-plan kitchen could lead to under-pressure in your room.
The danger is that noxious flue gases flow from the stove into
your room (smoke blowback); also, the stove will be operating
inefficiently. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that
fresh air is supplied to your room. You can supply fresh air by
opening a fanlight or slightly opening a window.

3.3

Flue

For the stove to work correctly and safely, you will need
sufficient draught in the flue. When lighting the stove the flue
is still cold, resulting in little draught. In the case of a wood
burning stove more air is added at the beginning in order
to stimulate the draught. This extra air can be obtained by
opening the primary air supply. If there is sufficient draught and
the stove is burning properly, the air supply is closed again. The
primary air supply is controlled by means of the air slide (see
section 5.2). If there is too much draught (max. of 20 Pascal)
the flue gases are discharged too quickly resulting in too little
time to give off heat. This is at the expense of efficiency. We
recommend contacting your installer to solve this problem.
If it is foggy and/or there is no wind, the flue gases could blow
back and cause discomfort.

3.4

Ash

When the stove is operating wood ash is created. After many
hours of operation, the necessary amount of ash will have
been created. An ash layer will create an insulating layer in
your stove. This will increase the temperature and improve the
combustion process. You can, therefore, leave the layer of ash
undisturbed. Only when the layer of ash obstructs the primary
air supply (in the case of a wood burning stove) or reaches
the ash threshold is it necessary to scoop out half of the ash
(maximum). Use a steel bucket to dispose of the ash as it can
still be smouldering, even after a couple of days. Do not use
a vacuum cleaner, as the dust bag and its content are very
combustible.
Ash from pure (untreated) and dry wood is a natural product.
You can use it as a soil enhancer. Cooled ash can also be put
into containers used for the disposal of vegetable, fruit and
garden waste.

English

Dik Geurts

Max. length

Max. quantity

Max. Kg

Noa Medium

28 cm

2,2

Noa Large

40 cm

2,8

Aruba Small