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11
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proBlEM
poSSiBlE CAuSE
rEASon/Solution
CHECK BATTERY (red) LED
is on.
Clips are not making a good
connection to the battery.
Connections are reversed.
Battery is defective (will not
accept a charge).
Check for poor connection to
battery and frame. Make sure
connection points are clean.
Rock the clips back and forth
for a better connection.
Unplug the charger and reverse
the clips.
Have battery checked.
CHECK BATTERY (red) LED
is blinking.
Indicates the charger is in
abort mode.
See “Aborted Charge” in the
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
Section.
Short or no start cycle when
cranking engine.
Drawing more than the engine
start rate.
Failure to wait 3 minutes
between cranks.
Clips are not making a good
connection.
AC cord and/or extension cord
is loose.
No power at receptacle.
The charger may be
overheated.
Battery may be severely
discharged.
Crank time varies with the
amount of current drawn. If
cranking draws more than the
engine start rate, crank time
may be less than 5 seconds.
Wait 3 minutes of rest time
before the next crank.
Check for poor connection at
battery and frame.
Check power cord and
extension cord for loose
fitting plug.
Check for open fuse or circuit
breaker supplying AC outlet.
The thermal protector may
have tripped and needs a little
longer to reset. Make sure the
charger vents are not blocked.
Wait and try again.
On a severely discharged
battery, charge for 10 to 15
minutes with a manual charger
to help assist in cranking.
Charger will not turn on when
properly connected.
AC outlet is dead.
Poor electrical connection.
Check for open fuse or circuit
breaker supplying AC outlet.
Check power cord and
extension cord for loose
fitting plug.
The battery is connected and
the charger is on, but is not
charging.
The charger is in tester mode,
not charge mode.
Press the CHARGE RATE
button to activate the charge
mode and select a charge rate.
The measured current is much
lower than what was selected.
The charger reached the
maximum voltage and is
reducing the current.
No problem; this is a normal
condition.
