11
Figure 11 shows proper sawing position. Note that hands are kept away from cutting
area.
To avoid kickback
, DO support board or panel NEAR the cut (Fig. 12). DON’T
support board or panel away from the cut (Fig. 13).
Place the work with its “good” side – the one on which appearance is most important
– down. The saw cuts upward, so any splintering will be on the work face that is up
when you cut it.
DON’T support board or panel
AWAY from the cut.
FIG. 13
SUPPORT
DO support board or panel
NEAR the cut.
FIG. 12
Cutting
Place the wider portion of the saw shoe on that part of the work piece which is solidly
supported, not on the section that will fall off when the cut is made. As examples,
Figure 11 illustrates the RIGHT way to cut off the end of a board. Always clamp
work. Don’t try to hold short pieces by hand! Remember to support cantilevered
and overhanging material. Use caution when sawing material from below.
Be sure saw is up to full speed before blade contacts material to be cut. Starting saw
with blade against material to be cut or pushed forward into kerf can result in kick-
back. Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring.
Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of material, and knotty or
damp sections can put a heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw more
slowly, but hard enough to keep working without much decrease in speed. Forcing the
saw can cause rough cuts, inaccuracy, kickback, and over-heating of the motor. Should
your cut begin to go off the line, don’t try to force it back on. Release the switch and
allow blade to come to a complete stop. Then you can withdraw the saw, sight anew, and
start a new cut slightly inside the wrong one. In any event, withdraw the saw if you must
shift the cut. Forcing a correction inside the cut can stall the saw and lead to kickback.
IF SAW STALLS, RELEASE THE TRIGGER AND BACK THE SAW UNTIL IT IS LOOSE.
BE SURE BLADE IS STRAIGHT IN THE CUT AND CLEAR OF THE CUTTING EDGE
BEFORE RESTARTING.
As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to stop before lifting the
saw from the work. As you lift the saw, the spring-tensioned telescoping guard will
automatically close under the blade. Remember the blade is exposed until this occurs.
Never reach under the work for any reason. When you have to retract the telescoping
guard manually (as is necessary for starting pocket cuts) always use the retracting
lever.
NOTE:
When cutting thin strips, be careful to ensure that small cutoff pieces don’t
hang up on inside of lower guard.
RIPPING (FIG. 14)
INSTALL RIP
FENCE
IN THIS
DIRECTION
FIG. 14
Ripping is the process of cutting
wider boards into narrower strips
– cutting grain lengthwise. Hand
guiding is more difficult for this type
of sawing and the use of a rip fence
is recommended.
POCKET CUTTING (FIG. 15)
CAUTION:
TURN OFF TOOL
AND REMOVE BATTERY PACK
FROM SAW BEFORE CHANGING ACCESSORIES OR MAKING ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
CAUTION:
Never tie the blade guard in a raised position. Never move the saw
backwards when pocket cutting. This may cause the unit to raise up off the work sur-
face which could cause injury.
A pocket cut is one that is made in a floor, wall, or other flat surface.
1. Adjust the saw shoe so the blade cuts at desired depth.
2. Tilt the saw forward and rest front of the shoe on material to be cut.
3. Using the retracting lever, retract lower blade guard to an upward position. Lower
rear of shoe until blade teeth almost touch cutting line.
4. Release the blade guard(its contact with the work will keep it in position to open
freely as you start the cut). Remove hand from guard lever and firmly grip auxilary
handle, (M) as shown in Figure 15. Position your body and arm to allow you to
resist kickback if it occurs.
