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When securing the wings, tighten the socket-head screws (30) no more than moderately. With the wings in place,
check the alignment of the wing panels, fins and fuselage along the top surface of the wing root. If there is an
unacceptable “black gap” at the wing / fin junction, sand the mating surfaces carefully to eliminate it (Fig. 14).
At this stage the GRP horns (18) can be glued in the rudders using 30 Minute Epoxy, again using the template to
set the correct angle. Check carefully that the linkage geometry is identical on both sides (Figs. 15). It is also
important that the pushrod from the horn should run in a straight line to the servo output arm (Figs. 15), and
more or less parallel to the servo output arm slot.
Once you are sure that the rudder servo arms are correctly aligned and the servos are at true centre, the rudder
pushrods can be assembled and the joints soldered. The parts required are the M2.5 studding (32), M2.5 locknuts
(33), M3 clevises (22) and aluminium ball-links (34). The M3 clevises are soldered to the M2.5 threaded rods
after the pushrods has been assembled and adjusted.
Press the linkage balls out of the aluminium ball-links (34), and attach them to the horns using the M2 x 15
cheesehead screws (35) and M2 self-locking nuts (36), as shown in Fig. 15.
Once you have completed all these stages of construction, the turbine can be installed together with the
associated electronics, the fueltank system and the RC components. Carry out the set-up process for the
equipment.
In our example we installed the JetCat electronics on the support plate (12) which is designed for this task. The
gas and kerosene valves are fixed to the plate using self-tapping screws, the electronics and fuel pump using
cable ties (Fig. 16). The self-tapping screws and cable ties are included in the kit.
To secure the turbine in the KANGAROO you will need the turbine clamp, which is designed specifically for the
JetCat P 80 / P 120. Fixings for the clamp and turbine are included in the set.
Position the turbine clamp as shown in Fig. 17, mark the position of the fixing holes using the clamp itself as a
template, and fit the four self-tapping screws to secure it. Here again, we recommend that you pilot-drill the
holes, as described for the retract units, to avoid splitting the plywood reinforcements. Fit and tighten the screws
to secure the turbine clamp. As you can see in Fig. 18, we packed up the rear of the turbine clamp with four 5.3 x
10 mm washers (37) on each side. This modifies the thrust angle of the turbine, and the revised setting has
proved ideal for the beginner to model jet aircraft. Packing up the turbine clamp has the effect of altering the
thrust axis of the turbine compared with the nominal setting. As your flying skills improve and you become more
familiar with the KANGAROO, you will find it worthwhile to reduce the turbine thrust angle by steadily
removing the packing washers. However, whether you are a beginner or an advanced pilot, we still recommend
fitting the four washers (37) on each side initially. Once you have installed the turbine you can cut a hole in the
rear of the fuselage for the cables and hoses as shown in Fig. 19. Now you can connect the turbine electronics to
the turbine. Assemble the fueltank from a 2-litre disposable drinks bottle - this is a Pepsi bottle on our
KANGAROO - following the instructions in the turbine manual, and install it in the model.
These 2-litre disposable bottles are not exactly precision items, and manufacturing tolerances may make it
necessary to trim the former which supports the bottle. Check that the tank bottle fits in the fuselage (Fig. 20),
then glue the machine-cut plywood fueltank support (11) to the front Herex former using 5-minute epoxy, resting
against the RC installation plate (8). Caution: do not glue it to the RC installation plate, otherwise the plate will
no longer be removable. Fit the two ring-screws (38) in the RC installation plate (8) so that the fueltank bottle
can be secured using rubber bands or cable ties (Fig. 20).
The rear part of the fuselage features factory-prepared wells on both sides to house the batteries. Install the
batteries after fitting extension leads as required: the battery leads must be long enough A) to reach as far as the
switch / turbine electronics and B) to be deployed neatly inside the fuselage. If you use a genuine JetCat turbine
battery, you will find that the cables are long enough as standard. You may have to cut holes in the battery wells
for the cables; this can be done using a long drill bit, or a metal rod or tube heated with a gas torch. Make the
holes just large enough to suit the connector which has to be passed through them.
By this time you should have installed the electronics for the turbine and the radio control system, together with
the pneumatic, fuel and air lines, and connected all the equipment. You just might have noticed by now that there
is a substantial quantity of cable, hose and general technology inside the model. The more neatly you deploy all
this, the easier it will be to ensure that everything works correctly. As far as possible, group the cable runs
together in a clear, logical way, and arrange and secure them in an orderly fashion. We recommend that you
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