Classic CL 4030, Руководство пользователя

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Section 5 - Troubleshooting
SECTION 5 – TROUBLESHOOTING
A. OUTDOOR FURNACE DOES NOT HEAT
(BUILDING IS LOSING TEMPERATURE)
1. Out of wood - Check firebox to see if fire is out. Add
wood as necessary. Use good quality wood since
poor quality wood will have very short burn times.
2. Circulation valve(s) closed - Be sure all valves in
the system are open.
3. Circuit breaker off - Check the circuit breaker that
supplies power to the outdoor furnace.
4. Solenoid not operating properly - Disconnect
power to the furnace; then check the fuse in the
control panel. If fuse is blown, check damper
door for obstructions and for free movement. Be
sure damper door works freely; then replace the
fuse. Check the solenoid plunger free length. With
the damper door fully closed, the correct length
is between 15/16" and 1" (see Fig. 48). Adjust if
necessary, but do not exceed 1". Be sure that the
damper door (when activated by the solenoid) does
not contact the louvered cover. Lubricate or adjust
as necessary. Check that the spring-loaded linkage
and damper door are not binding and that the spring
is not broken or missing.
5. Circulation pump(s) not operating - Check that
circulation pumps are operating. If not, disconnect
power to the pump. Close valves at the pump.
Disassemble the pump and try to turn the pump
shaft. If the shaft is stuck, replace the pump cartridge.
Replace only the cartridge whenever possible. If
necessary, replace the pump. Follow instructions
supplied with the pump.
6. Air in system - Check for air in the water lines or
heat exchangers. If you hear a gurgling sound in a
heat exchanger, air is present in the system. Shut off
the pump, wait 15 seconds and start the pump. If it
is necessary to force air from lines, refer to Initial
Start-up Procedures.
7. Outdoor furnace exhaust obstructed - Check
furnace exhaust for obstructions by observing the
amount of smoke coming out of the chimney with
the firebox door slightly ajar. If smoke seems very
restricted, remove the firewood and hot coals; then
check the chimney (top and bottom) and behind
the baffle for obstructions. On 4030 models only,
check that the chimney restrictor is not plugged with
creosote and that it is positioned 11" in from the end
of the chimney tee.
8. Building(s) poorly insulated or uninsulated -
Poorly insulated or uninsulated buildings, buildings
with uninsulated or poorly insulated ceilings, or a
lack of proper insulation under radiant flooring can
cause excessive fuel consumption and/or heating
problems.
9. Supply and return lines installed incorrectly -
Make sure the hot supply water line is connected to
the correct fitting on the outdoor furnace and heat
exchanger.
10. Circulation pump(s) installed backwards - Check
that pump flow direction is correct. If not, shut off
power to pump. If the flow is not in the correct
direction, disconnect pump from water line and
reverse pump mounting to correct flow direction.
If the pump is not mounted on the outdoor furnace,
check for proper pump mounting location (see Fig.
17-18).
11. Underground supply and return lines insulated
poorly - Heat loss from poorly insulated underground
supply and return lines is often indicated by an
unusually high amount of snow melting above
the lines when the ground temperature is 10º F or
colder.
12. Supply and return lines uninsulated - Uninsulated
supply and return lines in areas that are not intended
to be heated (unheated crawl spaces, under mobile
homes, etc.) may cause excessive heat loss. Insulate
the supply and return lines.
13. Poor water quality - Water with high amounts of
solids, sand or dirt can create deposits inside the wall
of heat exchanger components, reducing the amount
of heat output. If this condition is suspected, contact
your Central Boiler dealer.
B. OUTDOOR FURNACE IS OVERHEATING
1. Air entering through the door - Make sure
the firebox door is properly latched and check
the condition of the door rope. If it is not sealing
properly (indicated by a uniform indentation in the
rope), replace the rope. If door does not close tightly,
adjust using the appropriate procedure (see Owner
Serviceable Items).
2. Air entering through the damper - Check to be
sure the damper is operating correctly as explained
in section A.4. Be sure the damper closes all the way
and that no obstructions are present. The damper can
wear a groove or the bracket can loosen over time.
If that is the case, the damper may need replacement
and/or the bracket may need to be adjusted and
tightened.
If the solenoid is sticking, lubricate with silicone
spray or a light petroleum distillate (WD-40 or
equivalent). Check linkage for binding, or for a
missing or broken spring.