4.
One crew member should pull on a line tied securely to the forestay while another pushes up on
the mast and walks from the cockpit forward. With the mast erect, attach the forestay and forward
lower shrouds.
4.1.2 Tuning The Mast
Your mast is held aloft by the standing rigging (forestay, backstay, upper shrouds, fore and aft, lower
shrouds). The term "tuning" refers to adjustment of the standing rigging so that the mast remains "in
column" (not bent) when under load. This is accomplished by following the procedure outlined below:
At The Dock
1.
Adjust forestay and backstay so that the mast is straight up and down. Tie a bolt to a 6 to 7 foot
long piece of light line to make a quick plumb bob, and tape the free end of the line to the front of
the mast as high up as you can reach. This device will help you to determine whether the mast is
perpendicular or not. Otherwise, sight your mast with a corner of a building.
2.
Adjust upper shrouds so that the mast is straight up and down athwartships. That is, from side to
side as opposed to bow and stern.
3.
The upper shrouds should be firm but not far apart. A 50 pound push should deflect the upper
shroud about 1" at shoulder height.
4.
The lower shrouds (4 of them) should be adjusted so that they are looser than the upper shrouds.
While at dock, they should have no slack, but no tension either. No lower shrouds, when pushed,
should deflect the mast more than any other shroud when pushed equally hard. If this can't be
achieved, the upper shrouds are too tight. Back off one-half turn at a time on the upper shroud
turnbuckles until the tension of the lower shrouds is brought into balance.
4.1.3 Setting Up The Boom
1.
Slide the gooseneck fitting into the slot in mast and let it fall to rest on the mast stop screw or
downhaul cleat, whichever the case may be.
2.
Attach downhaul line to hole in gooseneck slide. Do not cleat at this stage.
3.
Attach block to the boom.
4.
Shackle mainsheet cam-cleat block to the traveller bar which is located on the transom or across
the middle of the cockpit, depending on the model. Some models do not have traveller bars and
the mainsheet block will attach at the center of the boom and to a barney-post or pad-eye
arrangement on the floor of the cockpit in the center of the boat.
5.
"Dead-end" tie the mainsheet line to the mainsheet camcleat block and "reeve" the mainsheet by
alternatingly passing the line through the fiddle block pulleys and the camcleat block pulleys and
tie knot at end of mainsheet "figure eight" to keep from losing end of mainsheet while under sail.
You dealer can demonstrate this procedure.
4.1.4 Bending On The Mainsail
1.
Feed the clew of the mainsail into the groove on the boom starting at gooseneck fitting and
pulling out to end of boom. This is much easier if done by two persons, one feeding, the other
pulling out.
2.
Insert tack pin at the gooseneck fitting, passing the pin through the sail's grommet. Pull the sail
foot out to remove wrinkles and tie the line to the clew (aft end) of the sail, run the line thru the
fitting at the end of the boom and fasten it to the cleat on the port side of the boom.
3.
Insert battens.
4.
Shackle headboard to end of wire halyard. Look aloft to ensure that halyard is not fouled.
5.
Start headboard into mast groove and take slight hoist on main halyard. Sail is now ready for
hoisting.
4.1.5 Bending On The Jibsail (If Required)
1.
Find tack of sail - this is the forward lower corner of jib.
2.
Connect jib to forestay by starting at the bottom snap and working up to the top snap in
Page 12 of 35
Catalina 22 Owner's Manual for 1987
7/21/2010
http://www.catalina22.org/manuals/mnl87/handbook.htm