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Decorative Stitching

87

3

Fagoting

Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

1

Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric
along their seams.

2

Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by
about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.

If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.

1

Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer

2

Basting stitching

3

4 mm (3/16 inch)

3

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 33).

4

Select stitch

25

or

26

.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching”

(page 56).

5

Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch

width” (page 47).

6

Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
along the center of the two pieces of fabric.

7

After sewing is finished, remove the paper.

Ladder

stitch

27

Decorative stitching

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

3.0

(1/8)

2.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

J

Rick-rack

stitch

28

4.0

(3/16)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

2.5

(3/32)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Decorative

stitch

29

5.5

(7/32)

0.0–7.0

(0–1/4)

1.6

(1/16)

1.0–4.0

(1/16–3/16)

Serpentine

stitch

30

5.0

(3/16)

1.5–7.0

(1/16–1/4)

1.0

(1/16)

0.2–4.0

(1/64–3/16)

N

Stitch Name Pattern

Application

Stitch Width

[mm (inch)]

Stitch Length

[mm (inch)]

Presser

Foot

Auto

Manual

Auto

Manual

2

1

3

J

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Содержание 885-U20

Страница 1: ...Read before use Read when additional information is required GETTING READY SEWING BASICS UTILITY STITCHES APPENDIX Computerized Sewing Machine Product Code 885 U20 Operation Manual ...

Страница 2: ......

Страница 3: ...as an odor heat discoloration or deformation stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord When transporting the machine be sure to carry it by its handle Lifting the machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling which could cause injuries When lifting the machine be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements otherwise you may injure you...

Страница 4: ...placed by authorized dealer In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required first follow the troubleshooting table in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself If the problem persists please consult your local authorized Brother dealer Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer...

Страница 5: ...22 Threading the upper thread 22 Threading the needle 25 Threading the needle manually without using the needle threader 26 Using the twin needle 27 Pulling up the bobbin thread 29 Replacing the Needle 30 Needle precautions 30 Needle types and their uses 30 Checking the needle 31 Replacing the needle 32 Replacing the Presser Foot 33 Presser foot precautions 33 Replacing the presser foot 33 Adjusti...

Страница 6: ...vercasting Stitches 58 Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot G 58 Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot J 59 Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter 60 Basic Stitching 62 Basic stitching 62 Blind Hem Stitching 63 Buttonhole Stitching Button Sewing 65 Buttonhole sewing 66 Button sewing 69 Zipper Insertion 72 Inserting a centered zipper 72 Inserting a side zip...

Страница 7: ...ce 100 Troubleshooting 102 Frequent troubleshooting topics 102 Upper thread tightened up 102 Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric 103 Incorrect thread tension 105 Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed 106 When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat 109 List of symptoms 111 Error messages 115 Operation beep 116 Index 117 ...

Страница 8: ...ence Sewing Machine Features 1 Easy upper threading Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine the upper thread can easily be threaded In addition the needle can be threaded with a simple operation page 22 2 One touch lower threading You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread page 20 3 Simple bobbin winding The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thr...

Страница 9: ...21 18 Spool cap small 130013 124 5 Zigzag foot J on machine XC3021 031 19 Extra spool pin XC4654 151 6 Blind stitch foot R XE2650 001 20 Spool net XA5523 020 7 Button fitting foot M XE2643 001 21 Foot controller XD0496 221 EU area 8 Seam ripper XZ5082 001 XC6651 321 other areas 9 Bobbin 4 SA156 SFB XA5539 151 22 Operation manual XE0433 201 10 Needle set X58358 021 23 Quick reference guide XE0434 0...

Страница 10: ...optional accessories available for your machine 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 No Part Name Part Code No Part Name Part Code Americas Others Americas Others 1 Side cutter SA177 F054 XC3879 152 7 Non stick foot SA114 F007N XC1949 052 2 Quilting guide SA132 F016N XC2215 052 8 Open toe foot SA186 F060 XE1094 101 3 Wide table SA551 WT5 XC9567 222 SA147 F027N XC1964 052 4 Walking foot SA140 F033N XC2214 052 9...

Страница 11: ...pen the top cover to place the spool of thread on the spool pin 6 Bobbin winder Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin 7 Operation panel Use for stitch selection and various stitch functions pages 12 8 Operation buttons and sewing speed controller Use these buttons and the slide to operate the sewing machine page 11 9 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment Store presser feet and bob...

Страница 12: ...he presser foot holder Right side rear view 1 Presser foot dial Use the presser foot dial to adjust the amount of pressure that the presser foot applies to the fabric 2 Handle Carry the sewing machine by its handle when transporting the machine 3 Handwheel Turn the handwheel toward you to raise and lower the needle The handwheel should be turned towards you counterclockwise 4 Air vent The air vent...

Страница 13: ... sewing or while it is sewing Red When the machine is not ready to start sewing Orange When the bobbin winder shaft is moved to the right for winding the bobbin thread onto the bobbin 2 Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button Press the Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button to sew reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches Reverse stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to sew in the opposit...

Страница 14: ...ll stop with the needle lowered 7 Automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key Press the automatic reverse reinforcement stitch key to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of stitching 8 Stitch selection key Press the stitch selection key to select the number for the stitch that you wish to use 80 stitches are available For details refer to Selecting stitching...

Страница 15: ...ing the needle 25 Threading the needle manually without using the needle threader 26 Using the twin needle 27 Pulling up the bobbin thread 29 Replacing the Needle 30 Needle precautions 30 Needle types and their uses 30 Checking the needle 31 Replacing the needle 32 Replacing the Presser Foot 33 Presser foot precautions 33 Replacing the presser foot 33 Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot 34 ...

Страница 16: ...orrectly due to a bad connection or a disconnection During electrical storms Use only the power code included with this machine Do not use extension cords or multi plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to them Fire or electric shock may result Do not touch the plug with wet hands Electric shock may result When unplugging the machine always turn off the main power first Always grasp t...

Страница 17: ...e to turn it off 1 Make sure that the machine is not sewing 2 Press the left side of the main power switch on the right side of the machine set it to X The sewing lamp goes off when the machine is turned off 3 Unplug the power cord from the electrical outlet Grasp the plug when unplugging the power cord 4 Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack Note If a power outage occurs while the sewi...

Страница 18: ...r winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on the sewing machine Be sure to thread the machine as indicated Only use the bobbin part code SA156 SFB XA5539 151 designed specifically for this sewing machine Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine If bobbins from other models are used the mac...

Страница 19: ...onto the pin so that the spool is horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom If the spool is not positioned so that the thread unwinds correctly the thread may become tangled around the spool pin 7 Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right as shown with the rounded side on the left 2 1 1 2 If the spool or the spool cap is not posit...

Страница 20: ...tly increase Be sure to check the thread tension For details refer to Changing the tension of the upper thread page 46 1 Spool net 2 Spool 3 Spool cap 4 Spool pin 8 While holding the thread near the spool with your right hand as shown pull the thread with your left hand and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front 1 Thread guide cover 9 Pass the thread under the thread g...

Страница 21: ...ed in press down on the foot controller 1 Start Stop button When the bobbin winding becomes slow press Start Stop button once to stop the machine When the foot controller is plugged in remove your foot from the foot controller e Use scissors to cut the end of the thread wound around the bobbin f Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the left Memo If the bobbin winder shaft is set to the right side the ...

Страница 22: ...in with your right hand so that the end of the thread is on the left and then after pulling the thread firmly around the tab with your left hand as shown lightly pull the thread to guide it through the slit 1 Tab Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect The bobbin was designe...

Страница 23: ...t 2 Cutter Cut the thread with the cutter Note Make sure that the thread is correctly inserted through the tension adjusting spring of the bobbin case If it is not inserted correctly reinsert the thread 1 Tension adjusting spring 8 Reattach the bobbin cover Insert the tab in the lower left corner of the bobbin cover and then lightly press down on the right side X The lower threading is finished Ne...

Страница 24: ... thread the machine as indicated Threading the upper thread Set the spool of thread on the spool pin and then thread the machine 1 Turn on the sewing machine 2 Raise the presser foot lever 1 Presser foot lever Note If the presser foot is not raised the sewing machine cannot be threaded When threading the upper thread carefully follow the instructions If the upper threading is not correct the threa...

Страница 25: ...d the thread unwinds to the front at the bottom 7 Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the right as shown with the rounded side on the left 1 1 1 2 If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly the thread may become tangled around the spool pin and the needle may break If the spool or the spool cap is not positioned correctly the thread may b...

Страница 26: ... be threaded Be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter before threading the machine In addition before removing the upper thread be sure to raise the presser foot and open the shutter This machine is equipped with a window that allows you to check the position of the take up lever Look through this window and check that the thread is correctly fed through the take up lever a Pass the ...

Страница 27: ...f the thread guide 2 Thread guide disk 2 Cut the thread with the cutter on the left side of the machine 1 Cutter Note If the thread is pulled through and cannot be cut correctly lower the presser foot so that the thread is held in place before cutting the thread If this operation is performed skip step 3 When using thread that quickly winds off the spool such as metallic thread it may be difficult...

Страница 28: ...e threader When using specialty thread such as transparent nylon thread or metallic thread a wing needle or a twin needle which cannot be used with the needle threader thread the needle as described below 1 Thread the machine to the needle bar thread guide For details refer to Upper Threading page 22 2 Lower the presser foot lever 1 Presser foot lever 3 Pass the thread through the eye of the needl...

Страница 29: ...d with the twin needle If the needle threader is used with the twin needle the sewing machine may be damaged 4 Insert the extra spool pin onto the bobbin winder shaft Insert the extra spool pin so that it is perpendicular to the bobbin winder shaft 1 Bobbin winder shaft 5 Swing down the spool pin so that it is horizontal 6 Place the upper thread spool for the needle on the right side onto the extr...

Страница 30: ...er the sewing machine is turned off the twin needle setting is not cancelled c Start sewing For details on starting to sew refer to Starting to sew page 42 X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to each other When using the twin needle be sure to attach zigzag foot J otherwise the needle may break or the machine may be damaged After adjusting the stitch width slowly turn the handwheel toward y...

Страница 31: ... upper thread with your left hand with the needle in the up position press Needle Position button twice to lower and raise the needle 1 Needle Position button X The bobbin thread is looped around the upper thread and can be pulled up 4 Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull out the end of the bobbin thread 5 Pull out about 10 cm 4 inches of the bobbin thread under the presser foot toward t...

Страница 32: ...wing machine needles Use of any other needle may bend the needle or damage the machine Never use bent needles Bent needles can easily break possibly resulting in injuries CAUTION Fabric Type Application Thread Size of Needle Type Size Medium weight fabrics Broadcloth Cotton thread 60 90 75 11 90 14 Taffeta Synthetic thread Flannel Gabardine Silk thread 50 Thin fabrics Lawn Cotton thread 60 90 65 9...

Страница 33: ...ated Before using the needle place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even 1 Flat side 2 Needle type marking Correct needle 1 Flat surface Incorrect needle If the distance between the needle and the flat surface is not even the needle is bent Do not use a bent needle 1 Flat surface The appropriate fabric thread and n...

Страница 34: ...p screw toward you counterclockwise to remove the needle Do not apply a strong force when loosening or tightening the needle clamp screw otherwise certain parts of the sewing machine may be damaged 6 With the flat side of the needle toward the rear of the machine insert the needle until it touches the needle stopper 7 While holding the needle with your left hand use the screwdriver to tighten the ...

Страница 35: ...sser foot is raised 4 Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder 1 Black button 2 Presser foot holder X The presser foot holder releases the presser foot Use the presser foot appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew otherwise the needle may hit the presser foot causing the needle to bend or break Only use presser feet designed specifically for this sewing machine ...

Страница 36: ...e presser foot is securely attached Note For details on the presser foot that should be used with the selected stitch refer to Stitch Settings page 94 Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot The presser foot pressure the amount of pressure applied to the fabric by the presser foot can be adjusted 1 Lower the presser foot lever 1 Presser foot lever 2 Turn the presser foot pressure dial at the ba...

Страница 37: ...te If the presser foot holder is not correctly installed the thread tension will be incorrect Using the optional walking foot With the walking foot both pieces of fabric are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the presser foot This is useful when sewing fabrics that are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when quilting Use the...

Страница 38: ...presser foot holder For details refer to Removing the presser foot holder page 35 Memo Only the straight stitch with reinforcement stitching and the zigzag stitch can be used with the walking foot For details on the stitches refer to Stitch Settings page 94 Note The optional walking foot is available through your Brother dealer Be sure to securely tighten the screw with the screwdriver otherwise t...

Страница 39: ...hed with free arm sewing install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Sewing large pieces of fabric The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of fabric easier 1 Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide table Pull out the four legs until they snap into place 2 Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left X With the flat bed attachment removed free arm sewing is possible 3...

Страница 40: ...nished using the wide table remove it While slightly lifting up the wide table pull it off to the left 6 Install the flat bed attachment back in its original position Memo With the legs folded up the wide table can be stored attached to the hard case Do not move the sewing machine while the wide table is attached otherwise damage or injuries may occur CAUTION ...

Страница 41: ... 46 Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 47 Adjusting the stitch width 47 Adjusting the stitch length 48 Useful Functions 49 Changing the needle stop position 49 Automatically sewing reverse reinforcement stitches 49 Changing the initial needle stop position 50 Useful Sewing Tips 51 Trial sewing 51 Changing the sewing direction 51 Sewing curves 51 Sewing thick fabrics 52 Sewing thin fabrics 53 Se...

Страница 42: ...n the sewing machine For details on turning on the machine refer to Turning on the machine page 15 2 Select the stitch Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn For details on selecting a stitch refer to Selecting stitching page 56 3 Attach the presser foot Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch For details on replacing the presser foot refer to Replacing the presser foot p...

Страница 43: ...he presser foot If the seam allowance is positioned on the right side sewing in a straight line is easier and the extra fabric does not get in the way 4 While holding the end of the thread and the fabric with your left hand turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise with your right hand to lower the needle to the starting point of the stitching 5 Lower the presser foot lever 1 Presser foot lev...

Страница 44: ...t Stop button X The machine starts sewing If you continue to hold Start Stop button pressed immediately after the sewing starts the machine will sew at a slow speed 3 When the end of the stitching is reached press Start Stop button once X The machine stops sewing with the needle down in the fabric 4 When you are finished sewing raise the needle and then cut the threads For details refer to Cutting...

Страница 45: ... completely release the foot controller X The machine stops sewing with the needle lowered in the fabric 7 When you are finished sewing raise the needle and then cut the threads For details refer to Cutting the thread page 45 Memo If Needle stop position key is lit the sewing machine will stop with the needle raised If the key is not lit the sewing machine will stop with the needle lowered The nee...

Страница 46: ...ing 3 to 5 stitches press Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button Keep Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button held down until you reach the beginning of the stitching 1 Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button X While Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button is held down reverse stitches are sewn 4 After sewing back to the beginning of the stitching release Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button X The machine stops s...

Страница 47: ...at are secured with reverse stitching pressing Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button sews reinforcement stitches 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other 1 Reverse stitching 2 Reinforcement stitching Memo Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected For details refer to Stitch Settings page 94 Cutting the thread When you have finished sewing cut the ...

Страница 48: ...r to Installing the bobbin page 20 and rethread the bobbin thread 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Bobbin thread 5 The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of the fabric Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen the upper thread Upper thread is too loose If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side of the fabric the upper thread is too loose Not...

Страница 49: ...isplayed stitch width display key lights up 1 Press the stitch width adjustment button in the operation panel X The stitch width adjustment button lights up 2 Slide the stitch width adjustment slider up and down Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider up makes the stitch width wider sliding the slider down makes the stitch width narrower 1 Stitch width adjustment slider 2 Stitch width adjustmen...

Страница 50: ... in the operation panel X The stitch length adjustment button lights up 2 Slide the stitch length adjustment slider up or down Sliding the stitch length adjustment slider up lengthens the stitch sliding the slider down shortens the stitch 1 Stitch length adjustment slider 2 Stitch length adjustment button 3 Straight stitch 4 Zigzag stitch To automatically select the stitch length most appropriate ...

Страница 51: ...ically sewing reverse reinforcement stitches The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and end of the stitching Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that is selected For details refer to Stitch Settings page 94 1 Select a stitch For details on selecting a stitch refer to Selecting stitching pag...

Страница 52: ...t Stitch button is pressed Start Stop button may be pressed to stop stitching when needed such as for pivoting corners Changing the initial needle stop position The needle position when the machine is turned on can be switched between a position on the left or at the center 1 While holding pressed the for the first digit tens from the stitch selection keys turn on the sewing machine 1 Up key for t...

Страница 53: ...th and width Since the results differ depending on the type of stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn perform the trial sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project Changing the sewing direction 1 When the stitching reaches a corner stop the sewing machine Leave the needle lowered in the fabric If the needle remained up when the machine stopped sewing press Needl...

Страница 54: ...t J so that the presser foot remains level while sewing allowing the fabric to be fed smoothly 1 Sewing direction 1 Raise the presser foot lever 2 Align the beginning of stitching and then position the fabric 3 While holding zigzag foot J level hold the presser foot locking pin black button on the left side pressed in and lower the presser foot lever 1 Presser foot holding pin black button 4 Relea...

Страница 55: ...and the edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate Aligning the fabric with the presser foot Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric 1 Seam 2 Presser foot Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking The markings on the needle plate show the distance from the needle posit...

Страница 56: ...g And then sew the edge of the hook and loop fastener at a slow speed If the needle does not pass through the hook and loop fastener replace the needle with the needle for thick fabrics page 30 1 Edge of the hook and loop fastener Use only the ungummed hook and loop fastener which is for sewing If the glue is attached to the needle or the bobbin hook race it may cause malfunction If the hook and l...

Страница 57: ...ng 63 Buttonhole Stitching Button Sewing 65 Buttonhole sewing 66 Button sewing 69 Zipper Insertion 72 Inserting a centered zipper 72 Inserting a side zipper 73 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 76 Stretch stitching 76 Elastic attaching 76 Appliqué Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 78 Appliqué stitching 79 Patchwork crazy quilt stitching 80 Piecing 80 Quilting 81 Free motion quilting 82 Reinforce...

Страница 58: ...ed stitch The presser feet are stored in the accessory compartment For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the twin needle refer to Stitch Settings page 94 3 Attach the presser foot For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 4 Turn on the sewing machine X When the machine is first turned on 00 will be displayed 5 Press Stitch selection key The number of the selected stitch i...

Страница 59: ...stitch length adjustment button and then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length 1 Stitch length adjustment slider 2 Stitch length adjustment button 3 Long 4 Short Memo When Stitch length display key or Stitch width display key is pressed the currently specified stitch length or width appears in the stitch indicator This allows the specified setting to be checked whil...

Страница 60: ... the guide of the presser foot and then lower the presser foot lever 1 Guide 4 Sew with the edge of the fabric against the presser foot guide 1 Needle drop point Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Overcasting stitch 06 Preventing fraying in medium weight and thin fabrics 3 5 1 8 2 5 5 0 3 32 3 16 2 0 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 1...

Страница 61: ...est results when sewing stretch fabrics decrease the pressure of the presser foot For details refer to Adjusting the pressure of the presser foot page 34 Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Zigzagstitch 04 Preventing fraying center baseline reverse stitching 3 5 1 8 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 4 1 16 0 0 4 0 0 3 16 J 3 point zigzag st...

Страница 62: ...to the needle clamp screw 1 Connecting fork 2 Needle clamp screw 5 Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin is aligned with the notch in the presser foot holder and then slowly lower the presser foot lever 1 Notch in presser foot holder 2 Pin X The side cutter is attached Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm inch Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Overcas...

Страница 63: ...ic will not be cut a Lower the presser foot lever and then start sewing X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching is sewn If the stitching is sewn in a straight line the seam allowance will be about 5 mm 3 16 inch 1 5 mm 3 16 inch Memo The side cutter can cut as much as one layer of 13 oz denim After using the side cutter clean it by removing any lint or dust If the side cutter can no longer c...

Страница 64: ...itch left needle position and the triple stretch stitch the needle position can be adjusted Sliding the stitch width adjustment slider up moves the needle to the right sliding the slider down moves the needle to the left Memo The stitch width adjustment button needs to be lit before using the slider to change the needle position Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width mm inch Stitch Length mm...

Страница 65: ... fabric with the wrong side facing up 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting 3 Attach blind hem foot R For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 4 Select a stitch For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 5 Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot and then lower the presser foot lever 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Fold of hem 3 Guide Stitc...

Страница 66: ... hem fold If the needle does not catch enough of the hem fold move the stitch width adjustment lever up This makes the stitch wider to move the needle closer onto the fold 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric For details on changing the stitch width refer to Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length page 47 7 Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide 8 Remove the basting sti...

Страница 67: ...onholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics 5 0 3 16 3 0 5 0 1 8 3 16 0 4 1 64 0 2 1 0 1 64 1 16 42 Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 0 1 16 0 5 2 0 1 32 1 16 43 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6 0 15 64 3 0 6 0 1 8 15 64 1 5 1 16 1 0 3 0 1 16 1 8 44 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics 7 0 1 4 3 0 7 0 1 8 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 3 1 0 1 64 1 16 ...

Страница 68: ...le foot A which is used for sewing buttonholes are indicated below 1 Button guide plate 2 Presser foot scale 3 Pin 4 Marks on buttonhole foot 5 5 mm 3 16 inch 1 Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position and length of the buttonhole 1 Marks on fabric 2 Button hole sewing 2 Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole foot A and then insert the button that will be put through the buttonhole 1 1 ...

Страница 69: ...ecting stitching page 56 5 Position the fabric with the front end of the buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on the sides of the buttonhole foot and then lower the presser foot lever 1 Mark on fabric front 2 Red marks on buttonhole foot Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot When lowering the presser foot do not push in the front of the presser foot otherwise the bu...

Страница 70: ...tton and then slide the stitch length adjustment slider to adjust the stitch length 1 Stitch length adjustment slider 2 Stitch length adjustment button For details refer to Adjusting the stitch length page 48 If the fabric does not feed for example if it is too thick decrease the density of the stitching Changing the stitch width Press the stitch width adjustment button and then slide the stitch w...

Страница 71: ...wrong side of the fabric and then tie it 8 With a seam ripper cut the middle part of the gimp thread remaining at the top end of the buttonhole Trim off any excess of the gimp thread Button sewing Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached 1 Measure the distance between the holes in the button to be attached 2 Raise the presser foot lever and then...

Страница 72: ... be slow X The sewing machine automatically stops after sewing reinforcement stitches If additional strength is needed to secure the button perform the button sewing operation twice 9 Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching to the wrong side of the fabric and then tie it with the bobbin thread 0 ...

Страница 73: ...tton into button sewing foot M and then pull the shank lever toward you 1 Shank lever 2 After sewing is finished cut the upper thread with plenty of excess wind it around the thread between the button and the fabric and then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning of the stitching Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at the end and at the beginning of the stitching on the wrong side of t...

Страница 74: ...h continue sewing to the edge of the fabric 1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening 3 Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric 1 Wrong side of fabric 4 Align the seam with the center of the zipper and then baste the zipper in place 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting stitching 3 Zipper 5 Attach the presser foot holder to the right p...

Страница 75: ...sides of the fabric facing each other sew reverse stitches after reaching the zipper opening For details refer to Basic Stitching page 62 2 Using a basting stitch continue sewing to the edge of the fabric 1 Basting stitching 2 Reverse stitches 3 Wrong side of fabric 4 End of zipper opening 3 Press open the seam allowance from the wrong side of the fabric 1 Wrong side of fabric When using zipper fo...

Страница 76: ...t page 33 7 Select stitch 01 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 8 Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra 3 mm 1 8 inch starting from the base of the zipper 9 When you are about 5 cm 2 inches from the end of the zipper stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered in the fabric raise the presser foot lever and then open the zipper and continue sewing 1 2 2 1 I 1 2 When...

Страница 77: ... reverse stitches at the end of the zipper opening and align the zipper teeth with the side of the presser foot 1 Right side of fabric 2 End of zipper opening 3 Reverse stitches 4 Beginning of stitching 5 Basting stitching c When you are about 5 cm 2 inches from the end of the zipper stop the sewing machine with the needle lowered in the fabric raise the presser foot lever and then open the zipper...

Страница 78: ...e finished dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape Therefore it is necessary that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used 1 Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the fabric Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points to make sure that the tape is uniformly positioned on the fabric 1 Elastic tape 2 Pin 2 Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser ...

Страница 79: ...he fabric while stretching the tape so that it is the same length as the fabric While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot with your left hand pull the fabric at the pin nearest the front of the presser foot with your right hand When sewing be sure that the needle does not touch any pins otherwise the needle may bend or break CAUTION ...

Страница 80: ...4 0 1 16 3 16 19 Attaching appliqués and binding 1 5 1 16 0 5 5 0 1 32 3 16 1 8 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Piecing straight stitch 14 Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the right edge of the presser foot 5 5 7 32 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 5 0 1 64 3 16 15 Piecing straight stitching with a seam allowance of 6 5 mm 1 4 inch from the left edge of the presser foot 1 ...

Страница 81: ...ste or pin it onto the fabric that it will be attached to 1 Basting stitching 4 Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 5 Select a stitch For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 6 Turn the handwheel toward you counterclockwise and then begin sewing around the edge of the appliqué making sure that the needle drops just outside of the appliqué When sewin...

Страница 82: ...t you wish to piece together 2 Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 3 Select stitch 14 or 15 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 4 Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric For a seam allowance on the right side Align the right side of the presser foot with the edge of the fabric and sew using stitch 14 1 6 5 mm 1...

Страница 83: ... Only select straight or zigzag stitch patterns with reinforcement stitches For details refer to Stitch Settings page 94 1 Baste the fabric to be quilted 2 Attach the walking foot For details refer to Using the optional walking foot page 35 3 Select stitch 15 or 17 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 4 Place one hand on each side of the presser foot and hold fabric taut while sewing U...

Страница 84: ...ated at the rear of the machine on the base to to the left as seen from the rear of the machine 1 Feed dog position switch as seen from the rear of the machine X The feed dogs are lowered 5 Turn on the sewing machine and then select a stitch For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 6 Use both hands to hold the fabric taut and then move the fabric to follow the pattern Reinforcement stitche...

Страница 85: ... the procedure for sewing bar tacks at pocket corners is described below 1 Determine the desired length of the bar tack Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot A to the desired length The distance between the markings on the presser foot scale is 5 mm 3 16 inch 1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of bar tack 3 5 mm 1 8 inch A bar tack with a maximum length of about 28 mm 1 1 8 inches can be sewn S...

Страница 86: ...wise the bar tack will not be sewn with the correct size 1 Do not reduce the gap 5 Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible 1 Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot 1 Buttonhole lever 2 Bracket 6 Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand and then start sewing X Once sewing is completed the machine automatically sews re...

Страница 87: ...ser foot lever 5 Start sewing X Once sewing is completed the machine automatically sews reinforcement stitches then stops 6 Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the center of the eyelet When using the eyelet punch place thick paper or some other protective sheet under the fabric before punching the hole in the fabric Memo If light weight thread is used the stitching may be sparse If this occurs s...

Страница 88: ...tuck stitch 13 Shell tuck stitching on collars and curves 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Smocking stitch 25 Smocking fabrics to add texture and elasticity 5 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 26 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 Scallop stitch 21 Satin scallop stitching 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 N Hemstitching 31 Lace se...

Страница 89: ...ils refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 4 Select stitch 25 or 26 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 5 Set the stitch width to 7 0 mm 1 4 inch For details refer to Adjusting the stitch width page 47 6 Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned along the center of the two pieces of fabric 7 After sewing is finished remove the paper Ladder stitch 27 Decorative stitching 4 0...

Страница 90: ...es Smocking The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called smocking It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to fabric 1 Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 2 Select the straight stitch and then adjust the stitch length to 4 0 mm 3 16 inch and loosen the thread te...

Страница 91: ...azy quilt 1 Attach zigzag foot J For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 2 Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric and then open up the seam allowances 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 6 5 mm 1 4 inch seam allowance 3 Straight stitch 3 Select stitch 22 23 or 24 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 4 Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces up and then ...

Страница 92: ...lacing the presser foot page 33 3 Select a stitch The stitches that can be used are 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 or 39 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 Select a stitch width of 6 0 mm 15 64 inch or less 4 Start sewing Partially removing threads is called drawnwork This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a loose weave Two ways to create drawnwork are described below Drawnwor...

Страница 93: ...ong the other edge of the frayed section so that it looks like the previous stitching Drawnwork Example 2 1 Pull out several threads from two sections of the fabric separated by an unfrayed section of about 4 mm 3 16 inch 1 4 mm 3 16 inch 2 Attach monogramming foot N For details refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 3 Select stitch 34 For details refer to Selecting stitching page 56 4 Sew al...

Страница 94: ...92 UTILITY STITCHES ...

Страница 95: ...g the machine surface 100 Cleaning the race 100 Troubleshooting 102 Frequent troubleshooting topics 102 Upper thread tightened up 102 Tangled thread on wrong side of fabric 103 Incorrect thread tension 105 Fabric is caught in the machine and cannot be removed 106 When the thread became tangled under the bobbin winder seat 109 List of symptoms 111 Error messages 115 Operation beep 116 Index 117 ...

Страница 96: ...s 3 5 1 8 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 4 1 16 0 0 4 0 0 3 16 Yes J Reverse No No 3 point zigzag stitch 05 J Overcasting on medium weight or stretch fabrics attaching elastic darning etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 1 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 Yes J Reinforcement No No Overcasting stitch 06 G Overcasting on thin or medium weight fabrics 3 5 1 8 2 5 5 0 3 32 3 16 2 0 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No Reinforcement No Yes 07...

Страница 97: ... Reinforcement No No Quilting stitch for stippling 20 J Quilting background stitching stippling 7 0 1 4 1 0 7 0 1 16 1 4 1 6 1 16 1 0 4 0 1 16 3 16 No Reinforcement No No Satin scallop stitch 21 N Scallop stitching 5 0 3 16 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J Reinforcement No No Joining stitch 22 J Patchwork stitching and decorative stitching 4 0 3 16 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 2 1 16 0 2 4 0 1...

Страница 98: ...forcement No No 34 N Decorative hemming on thin medium weight and plain weave fabrics heirloom stitching etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 4 0 3 16 1 5 4 0 1 16 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 35 N Decorative hemming on thin medium weight and plain weave fabrics heirloom stitching etc 5 0 3 16 1 5 7 0 1 16 1 4 2 5 3 32 1 5 4 0 1 16 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 36 N Decorative hemming on thin medium weight ...

Страница 99: ...No Automatic reinforcement No No 45 A Keyhole buttonholes for medium weight and thick fabrics 7 0 1 4 3 0 7 0 1 8 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 3 1 0 1 64 1 16 No Automatic reinforcement No No 46 A Horizontal buttonholes for thick or furry fabrics 7 0 1 4 3 0 7 0 1 8 1 4 0 5 1 32 0 3 1 0 1 64 1 16 No Automatic reinforcement No No Bar tack stitch 47 A Reinforcing openings and areas where the seam easily comes loo...

Страница 100: ...tc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 59 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 0 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 60 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 6 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 61 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 2 5 3 32 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 62 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7...

Страница 101: ...n etc 7 0 1 4 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 4 1 64 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J Reinforcement No No 74 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 2 5 7 0 3 32 1 4 0 4 1 64 0 1 1 0 1 64 1 16 Yes J Reinforcement No No Cross stitch 75 N For decoration etc 7 0 1 4 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 6 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 76 N For decoration etc 6 0 15 64 0 0 7 0 0 1 4 1 4 1 16 0 2 4 0 1 64 3 16 No Reinforcement No No 77 N Fo...

Страница 102: ... will suffer if dust collects in the bobbin case therefore it should be cleaned periodically 1 Turn off the sewing machine 2 Unplug the power cord from the power supply jack on the right side of the sewing machine 3 Remove the flat bed attachment 4 Remove the needle plate cover The needle plate cover is removed differently depending on the model If there is a screw in the needle plate cover 1 Use ...

Страница 103: ...model If there is a screw in the needle plate cover 1 Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into the needle plate and then slide the cover back on 1 Needle plate cover 2 Use the disc shaped screwdriver to tighten the screw in the needle plate cover If there is no screw in the needle plate cover 1 Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into the needle plate and then slide the cover back on 1...

Страница 104: ...er side of fabric 2 Lower thread visible from upper side of fabric 3 Upper thread 4 Upper side of fabric 5 Lower thread Cause Incorrect lower threading If the lower thread is incorrectly threaded instead of the appropriate tension being applied to the lower thread it is pulled through the fabric when the upper thread is pulled up For this reason the thread is visible from the upper side of the fab...

Страница 105: ...noise is made and sewing cannot continue Looking under the fabric there is tangled thread in the bobbin case Cause Incorrect upper threading If the upper thread is incorrectly threaded the upper thread passed through the fabric cannot be firmly pulled up and the upper thread becomes tangled in the bobbin case causing a rattling noise Remedy check details Remove the tangled thread and then correct ...

Страница 106: ... thread with your left hand and then pass the thread behind the thread guide cover and to the front 1 Thread guide cover 7 Pass the thread under the thread guide plate and then pull it up 1 Thread guide plate 8 While using your right hand to lightly hold the thread passed under the thread guide plate pass the thread through the thread path in the order shown below 1 Shutter 9 Pass the thread behin...

Страница 107: ...ric are not being used the thread tension will not be adjusted correctly causing wrinkles in the fabric or skipped stitches Refer to Needle types and their uses page 30 to check that a needle and thread appropriate for the fabric are being used Cause 3 An appropriate setting on the thread tension dial is not selected Turn the thread tension dial to select an appropriate thread tension The appropri...

Страница 108: ...se the needle out of the fabric and then remove the needle Refer to Replacing the needle page 32 4 Remove the presser foot and presser foot holder Refer to Replacing the presser foot page 33 and Removing the presser foot holder page 35 5 Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it If the fabric can be removed remove it Continue with the following steps to clean the race 6 Remove the needle pla...

Страница 109: ...o holes at the needle plate mounting base and then fit the needle plate onto the machine e Lightly finger tighten the screw on the right side of the needle plate Then use the disc shaped screwdriver to firmly tighten the screw on the left side Finally firmly tighten the screw on the right side Turn the handwheel to check that the feed dogs move smoothly and do not contact the edges of the slots in...

Страница 110: ...he needle contacts the needle plate remove the needle plate and then install it again starting with step c in Removing the fabric from the machine page 107 1 Hole in the needle plate 2 Handwheel 4 Select stitch 04 At this time increase the stitch length and width to their maximum settings For details on changing the settings refer to Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length page 47 5 Slowly turn the ...

Страница 111: ...the bobbin winding thread guide correctly the thread may become tangled under the bobbin winder seat In such a case wind off the thread according to the following procedure 1 Thread 2 Bobbin winder seat 1 If the thread become tangled under the bobbin winder seat press Start Stop button once to stop the bobbin winding When the foot controller is plugged in remove your foot from the foot controller ...

Страница 112: ... from the shaft 4 Hold the thread end with your left hand and wind off the thread clockwise near the bobbin with your right hand as shown below 5 Wind the bobbin again Note Make sure that the thread passes under the pretension disk of the bobbin winding thread guide correctly page 18 ...

Страница 113: ...he upper thread tension is too tight Loosen the upper thread tension page 46 The fabric is pulled too much Lightly guide the fabric The spool is incorrectly installed Correctly install the spool page 22 The area around the hole in the needle plate is scratched or has a burr on it Replace the needle plate Contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center The area around the hole in the p...

Страница 114: ...s machine is not used Incorrect bobbins will not work properly Only use a bobbin designed specifically for this machine page 16 The thread tension is incorrect The upper thread was not threaded correctly Correct the upper threading page 22 The bobbin thread is incorrectly installed Correctly install the bobbin thread page 20 The combination of fabric thread and needle is not correct Select a threa...

Страница 115: ...n page 25 The needle is incorrectly installed Correctly install the needle page 32 The stitch is not sewn correctly The presser foot that is used is not appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the type of stitch that you wish to sew page 94 The thread tension is incorrect Adjust the tension of the upper thread page 46 The thread is ta...

Страница 116: ... right so that the speed will be fast page 19 The thread that was pulled out was not wound onto the bobbin correctly Wind the thread that was pulled off round the bobbin five or six times clockwise page 19 Fabric being sewn with the machine cannot be removed Thread is tangled below the needle plate Lift up the fabric and cut the threads below it and clean the race page 106 The fabric feeds in the ...

Страница 117: ...Stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the Start Stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised The Reverse Reinforcement Stitch button or Needle Position button was pressed while the bobbin winder is moved to the right The Start Stop button was pressed while the foot controller was connected The motor locked u...

Страница 118: ...ration One beep is sounded If an incorrect operation is performed Two or four beeps are sounded If the machine locks up for example because the thread is tangled The sewing machine continues to beep for four seconds The machine automatically stops Be sure to check for the cause of the error and correct it before continuing to sew ...

Страница 119: ...are 100 changing sewing direction 51 cleaning 100 cleaning brush 7 101 crazy quilt stitching 80 curves 51 cylindrical pieces 37 D disc shaped screwdriver 7 E elastic tape 76 electrical outlet 15 error messages 115 even seam allowance 53 extra spool pin 7 27 eyelet 85 eyelet punch 7 68 85 F fagoting 87 features 6 feed dog position switch 10 82 feed dogs 10 82 flat bed attachment 9 foot controller 7...

Страница 120: ...tter 8 60 sleeves 83 smocking 88 spool cap 7 17 23 spool net 7 spool pin 9 17 23 start stop button 11 42 starting sewing 42 stitch guide foot 8 stitch indicator 12 stitch length 48 stitch length adjustment button 12 stitch length adjustment slider 12 stitch length display key 12 stitch number display key 12 stitch pattern plate 7 stitch selection key 12 stitch settings 94 stitch width 47 stitch wi...

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Страница 124: ...XE0433 2012 Please visit us at http solutions brother com where you can get product support and answers to frequently asked questions FAQs English 885 U20 Printed in China ...

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