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Chapter 7: Final adjustment for the Bed Cabinet and springs.
Chapter 7:
Final adjustment for the
Bed Cabinet and springs.
REQUIRED TOOLS
• Cordless Drill with #2 Phillips
If the bottom of the cabinet can’t be moved side-to-side (e.g. the bed is on carpet), you
can first try sliding the bed on the provided wood shims. If that doesn’t work you
can adjust the top by
first removing the Bed Face Panel (see Chapter 8)
and then
remove the Bed Cabinet Top Nailer from the wall. Prior to doing this, measure how
far and in what direction the bed cabinet needs to shift in order to achieve alignment.
NEVER REMOVE THE SCREWS IN “BED CABINET TOP NAILER”
FROM THE WALL WITHOUT FIRST REMOVING THE BED FACE PANEL.
THE BED CABINET WILL COLLAPSE OTHERWISE.
REQUIRED HARDWARE
• Hardware Package #2
Check that the Bed Face Panel has equal clearance top to
bottom on the left and right sides. If the Bed Cabinet is
leaning to one side, nudge it at the floor level. E.g., if there is
a wider gap along the top-left and bottom-right sides, move
the bottom of the Bed Cabinet to the left to equalize the side
reveals. If there is a wider
gap along the bottom-left and top-right sides,
move the bottom to the right.
Once the bed is level and square, you can now
attach the “
Baseboard Bracket
” using two 3”
long screws from Hardware Package #2.
STEP 1
FIG. 7A - LEG ASSEMBLY, RIGHT SIDE
The “
Bed Cabinet Toe
Kick
” can now be attached
using the push-on Dragon
clips. The holes on the Toe
Kick are offset to one side,
meaning the clip is purposely
asymmetrical and can be attached two different
ways depending on floor type:
•
Hard Surface (tile, wood, etc): Attach with the
wider (~1”) side down so the bottom of the Toe
Kick is flush with the rest of the Murphy Bed.
•
Carpet: Attach with the narrow (~3/4”) side down to give room under the Toe Kick.
STEP 2
FIG. 7B
If you have any question, contact us (phone:
1-855-466-4781
, email:
or live chat:
https://bredabeds.com
) before doing anything.
