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12
CLEANING
The beautiful stainless steel (non-magnetic) and aluminum finish of the chassis and transformer top
covers will last for years. A regular dusting with a soft, non-abrasive cloth will generally keep the
finish looking like new. Fingerprints may be removed with a small amount of degreasing solution on a
soft cleaning cloth. Be sure to apply any liquid into a soft cleaning cloth, not directly onto the chassis.
At no time should you allow any liquids to drop onto the amplifiers; it may run into the electronic
circuitry underneath and cause damage which will not be covered under your warranty!
NOTE:
Cleaning must be done with the amplifier turned off!
TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE
If at any time the AA DMI 3 H amplifier fails to work, follow this simple checklist:
1)
Make certain that the A.C. power cord is plugged in firmly, both at the A.C. wall socket and at
the A.C. amplifier socket.
2)
Remove the A.C. power cord at the amplifier and open the fuse hatch on the A.C. input
socket. Check that:
A.
A “slow-blow” fuse, with a rating of 2 Amp 250V (0.25” x 1.25”), is installed for 120V
AC or 1A Amp 250V (5mm x 20mm) for European and Asian versions.
B.
That the A.C. power fuse is intact and has not blown. If the power line fuse has
blown, replace it with a same size and type fuse of the same rating (2 Amp 250V.
slow-blows - 100 to 120 Volt Countries / 1 Amp 250V. - 200 to 240 Volt Countries).
3)
If the fuse blows again without the power tubes installed, then you should return the
amplifier to your dealer or to a service depot for repair.
NOTE:
Under no circumstances should you replace the A.C. power fuse with one of a higher
current rating! Doing so may cause further damage to the amplifier in the event of a fault
condition and will also void your warranty! In addition, your continued protection from the risk
of fire or shock would be seriously compromised.
NOTE:
The surge capabilities of slow-blow fuses from different manufacturers vary.
