PN# 500-18300
Page 3
Rev. D, 08/11
FIG. 3: MOUNTING ON WOOD DOOR WITH ANSI 2 3/4” STRIKE
ANSI 2 3/4"
STRIKE
STOP
DRAW VERTICAL LINE
THROUGH EDGE OF
STRIKE HOLE WHICH
CAPTURES LATCH
DRAW HORIZONTAL
LINE BISECTING
STRIKE HOLE
USE THIS LINE TO
CENTER THE
UNLATCH
VERTICALLY
SET THE HORIZONTAL
POSITION OF THE UNLATCH
SO THAT THE SEPARATION
OF THE TWO PLUNGERS IS
1/16" FARTHER FROM THE
STOP THAN THE VERTICAL
LINE YOU HAVE DRAWN
1/16"
TEMPLATE IS MARKED TO
SET VERTICAL AND
HORIZONTAL ALIGNMENT
First, draw two lines with a pencil on the door frame (see Figure 3).
The first line is horizontal and bisects the 2 3/4” ANSI strike. The second is vertical and
extends the edge of the strike opening which captures the latch. Next, remove the strike
and introduce the template. Note that the template shows a center line arrow which you
will use to position the UnLatch vertically by lining it up with the center line you have previously
drawn. Next, the template has arrows at the top and bottom which line up with the vertical
extension line you have drawn. These arrows position the UnLatch horizontally so that the
separation between the two UnLatch plungers is 1/16” farther from the stop than the edge of the
ANSI 2 3/4” strike. The latch is captured by the UnLatch at the separation line between the
plungers and moving this position somewhat away from the stop increases adjustability of the
installation.
When you have the template correctly positioned, mark your top and bottom mounting holes.
Then you will need to chisel out a shallow space 3/32” (2MM) under the complete outline of the
UnLatch and chisel a rectangular cut-out as the template shows, 1 3/4” (44.5MM) deep to admit
the UnLatch body. As you get close to finishing the chiseling job, experimentally try to fit the
UnLatch body in the cavity. This will avoid chiseling too big a space. A tight fit is preferred as
it helps the solidity of the mounting which is important if the door receives abuse. Normally,
with a wood frame, the wires will be run inside the wall. Simply drill from the back of the cavity
you have created rearward into the wall space to admit the wires into the walls. To mount the
UnLatch to the wood frame, use the two furnished #12 x 1” flat head wood screws.
Note finally that we have implied that there are only two types of strikes on wooden doors: the
ANSI 4 7/8” and the ANSI 2 3/4”. In residential applications there are also square shaped
strikes (particularly found with inexpensive imported latches) which are smaller in outer
dimensions than the 2 3/4” strike. These pose no difficulties. The installation techniques are
the same as for an ANSI 2 3/4” strike.
2.4 FINAL ADJUSTMENT WITH SPACERS
For reliable operation, the door needs to close so that the latch easily enters and is retained by
the UnLatch. The door should not have to be pushed to engage as can be the case with a poorly
fitting or poorly closing door. To check this point, when the UnLatch has been mounted, after
the door is closed and latched, you should be able to “rattle” the latch against the UnLatch
plunger by pushing the door in and out. The amount of movement in the door latch should
be about 1/16-1/8” (1.5-3MM).
If the amount of slack or rattling is greater than 1/16-1/8”, you need the door to “close
earlier”. In effect, the edge of the stop needs to be closer to the UnLatch. To adjust for this,
first check to see if the stop has “silencers” on it. These are cylindrical rubber bumpers which
quiet the noise of a closing door but also have the effect of making the door close earlier. If you
have silencers and the door is still rattling too much, contact the factory for additional door stop
spacers (the UnLatch is shipped with two). If you don’t have silencers, add one or two door stop
spacers as is shown in Figure 4 to cause the door to close earlier.
