6
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION OF THE
CABINET AND WALL SLEEVE
1. The cabinet/wall sleeve may be
positioned in the wall to suit the
application subject to the
limitations that:
a) The finished wall must be
10” from the front of the
cabinet. See Figures 1 and 2.
b) The outdoor louver must be
flush or extending beyond the
outside wall (no recess). Use a
wall sleeve extension if
necessary. Figures 1 and 2
represent typical installations.
c) The wall sleeve must be
rigidly installed in the wall.
There are some installations
where it may be necessary to
anchor the top and sides of the
wall sleeve to the wall using
appropriate fasteners for the
type of construction.
d) For best results, the rear 12”
of the cabinet should be
supported by concrete,
regardless of wall construction.
The inside edge of the cabinet
must be 4” above the finished
floor to allow adequate space
for air flow to the unit and to
ensure proper fill by the sub
base. See Figure 1.
2. The cabinet/wall sleeve will not
support the wall above it.
Provide necessary lintels to
prevent distortion of the
cabinet.
3. The wall sleeve will be set in
wet concrete or mortar and
pressed firmly into place to get
contact between the concrete
and the bottom. Further details
follow.
IMPORTANT:
The wall sleeve
must possess an overall ¼”
slope downward toward the
outside to ensure proper water
drainage. The wall sleeve must
also be level from side-to-side.
Failure to do so may cause
property damage by water
flowing into the conditioned
space.
4. All cracks or openings between
the cabinet and the wall must
be filled with mortar and/or
caulked.
5. Receptacle
mounting,
installation of the junction box,
and rough wiring must be
completed at the time of wall
sleeve installation. Electrical
entrance must be between the
concrete, wall sleeve, and sub
base. Detailed instructions
follow.
A. New Masonry Wall
1. From the architect’s drawings,
determine the position of each
unit and mark the centerline of
the cabinet/wall sleeve. Also,
mark the location of the high
voltage receptacle enclosure
and the area of entrance for
the low voltage wiring. Low
voltage wiring exits through the
left side of the cord recess
located in the front face of the
sub base.
2. Run wiring to location for each
unit, as established in step 1.
3. Completely finish all concrete
work associated with floor and
wall (fig. 2 & 3).
4. Provide 12” wide concrete pad
under unit.
5. Install high voltage
wiring/conduit into the junction
box in the sub base. Leave at
least 8” of free wire inside the
conduit box to facilitate
connections.
6. Pull the low voltage wiring out
through the hole in the cord
recess area in the sub base.
7. Set the cabinet/wall sleeve in
¾” wet concrete – it must be
level from side to side, and
sloped ¼” overall, toward the
outside, for proper drainage.
Press into place.
8. Attach the sub base to the
sleeve using the three
grounding screws before the
concrete sets.
9. Ensure cabinet/wall sleeve is
not distorted during installation
and is adequately protected
during the construction period.
10. Build up wall around cabinet,
making sure that the cracks are
closed and that the cabinet
remains square, especially on
the top.
B. Existing Masonry Wall
Cut opening into wall, providing a
minimum of ½” clearance on sides
and top and 1” on the bottom, to
pour new base (12” wide).
Follow steps 4 through 10 in “New
Masonry Wall”.
C. New Panel Wall
Provide 12” wide concrete pad
under unit.
Follow steps 4 through 10 in “New
Masonry Wall”.
D. Existing Panel Wall
Cut Opening in existing wall slightly
larger than cabinet/wall sleeve. Be
sure to locate at least 4” above
finished floor.
Follow steps 4 through 10 in “New
Masonry Wall”.
