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GVO3030
Feedback….
As we are forever trying to make sure you are our happiest customer, we are always on the look-
out for ways in which we could do better. Please fax us on
06 878 5758
with your thoughts. To
help you we have listed a few aspects that we would like you to comment on.
1.Finding out about our range of garden sheds and the various options we offer….
2.The store and the sales person that you purchased from….
3.The delivery and the overall dealings for the purchase of your shed….
4.The assembly of your shed and clarity of instructions….
5.Did the shed fit your needs?
6.What would you order differently next time?
Well done you have finished the panels….
Points to note as you construct your shed:
Do not
attempt to assemble panels in windy conditions
Make
sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
It is
easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up
Complete
all
panels
before erecting your shed.
Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
Always wear non slip gloves protective footwear and eyewear.
5: Now to join your corners and put your roof on….
1st: Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up bring the one end wall into meet it at the
left corner overlapping the corners as Fig 1. Drill & Fix at approx 100mm down from the top and up from the
bottom drilling and fixing from the outside. Make sure the walls are sitting flat and flush at the
bottom.
2nd: Bring the other end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again checking the
bottoms are flush
3rd: Bring the front wall into place and join the front corners to the end walls same as the back.
4th: Finish joining corners by fixing at approx 300mm apart. You will find it easier to drill these cor-
ners if they are supported on the inside. Use the handle end of a hammer into the inside of the
corner, but beware of drilling holes in the end of your hammer.
5th: With a person at each end of the roof panel with the Ridge beam attached, waft it over top
of your upright walls and lower down on top. Have your helping hand go inside and make
sure the roof panel is centralised by having the ridge beam sitting right on the apex of the
channel at the peak of the end wall. Fix the “L” thru the top channel to both end walls at the
1st rib in from the lowest corner making sure it is still centralised. The ridge beam will not be
held down at this stage.
6th: Now waft the 2nd roof panel onto the walls, slipping it into the ridge beam. Make sure it is sit-
ting firmly into ridge beam and then fix it to the inside flange of the ridge up underneath. (Fig
2) Now finish off fixing the “L”s to the top channels at both ends. Fix at 300mm apart and also
thru end of ridge beam into “L”s. If you find the roof is binding and not wanting to sit squarely
on the walls, this will be caused by unlevel site
or
walls are not square. Adjust accordingly.
7th: Using your ladder and tape measure, fix down thru the top of the roof, thru the pan into the
top channel of front and back walls. (10mm more than the overhang). Fix beside every 2nd
rib. (Fig 3). You will not need to worry about these fixings leaking as any water seeping thru
these fixings will end up on the outside of the walls.
8th: Attach padbolt to door strap if not already done so. Check that all swarf is removed and most
importantly….
9th: Fix your shed down to its foundations. If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you will have
problems with your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a spade under either
door jamb and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side needs propping up.
Well done!
If you choose to vary from these instructions your warranty will be impaired.
Recessed floor clamps
For especially poured floors
with recess around perimeter.
Flat floor clamps
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Fig
1
Fig
3
It is
utmost
essential that every shed has
a floor, but the only way to make sure
your shed is there to stay on windy sites is
with a recessed concrete floor
and
phone
0800 80 SHED
for more free advise
.
Fig
2
Bottom flange sits on top channel
of end walls
page 1 -
GVO3030
3.03m L x 3.03m W x 1.83m H (2090mm in centre)
Gable Roof GARDEN SHED
Parts list
The following parts are included in your shed:
a. 4 x 1830 x 780mm sheets (Back wall)
b. 8 x 1600 x 780mm sheets (Roof)
c. 2 x narrow 1830 x 715mm sheets (beside doors)
d. 2 x 1770 x 780mm sheets (Doors)
e. 8 x angle cut sheets x 780mm (Gable end walls)
f. 8 x “U” channels 3000mm long, 4 with cutouts (Front & Back) and 4
no cutouts (Roof)
g. 2 x “U” channels 3045mm long (Top of end walls)
h. 2 x “U” channels 3000mm long (Bottom of end walls)
i. 4 x “U” channels 1770mm (Door sides)
j. 2 x “U” channels 1586mm (Door spacers)
k. 4 x “U” channels 780mm (door tops & bottoms)
l. 4 x 1600mm “L” flashings (roof to side flashings)
m.4 x Gable end wall plates (2 small - outside & 2 Large - inside)
n. 3 x “Z” shaped door jambs (2 @ 1830mm & 1 @ 1770mm)
o. 1 x 3 metre Ridge Beam
p. 2 x GALVO Door strap - 310mm long
q. 1 pack screws and padbolt &
r. 1 pack of Rivets and hinges.
Caution:
Some parts have sharp edges and should be handled very care-
fully. We recommend the use of protective gloves and footwear when assem-
bling. All dimensions are approximate.
You will need these tools to assemble your shed:
Battery or electric Drill
3.3mm (1/8th inch) Drill bit
Screwdriver & Riveter
Tape measure & Ladder
Feel free to phone 0800 807 433 for an installer near you...
Do not attempt to erect shed in windy weather.
External Dimensions: 3030mm x 3030mm
Internal Dimensions: 2985mm x 2985mm
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