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tape prevents the fin from ever getting pushed sideways into the elevon’s path and hindering 
its movement. 

137.

 

Repeat for the second fin. 

 
 
BALANCING 
 
Correct fore-aft balance is achieved by adding lead to the nose area of the S-15. You can either melt 
it yourself to the appropriate size and shape, use fishing sinkers beaten into shape with a hammer, or 
make a slurry of lead shot mixed with epoxy glue. 
 
For maximum effectiveness the lead should be positioned as far forward as possible but not so far 
forward that it adversely affects the glider’s structural durability and/or the safety risk of impacts. 
Please consult your local guidelines as to the minimum setback required for lead balance weight if 
you intend to use the S-15 for competitive slope racing. It’s usually 1 1/2 inches (38mm) from the 
wing’s leading edge and sometimes 2” (50mm) from the nose. Measurements are taken chord-wise 
(direction of flight), not at right angles to the leading edge. Even if you don’t need it to comply with 
competition  rules  and  want  to  keep  the  glider’s  weight  to  a  minimum,  we  still  recommend 
maintaining  AT  LEAST  a  30mm  (1  3/16”)  buffer  of  foam  at  the  leading  edge,  preferably  a  little 
more. 
 

138.

 

Now it’s time for the most important step in  the S-15’s construction; adjusting the 

glider’s  centre  of  gravity  (CG),  also  known  as  its  balance  point.  If  the  glider  is  not 
accurately balanced it will  not  fly  well and may  not  even fly  at  all. An incorrect  centre of 
gravity is one of the most common causes of poor flight performance so take extra care here. 
During balance adjustment your glider must have everything already installed in place ready 
to fly, namely the fins and pushrods.  

139.

 

First,  check  that  your  glider  is  balanced  side  to  side  at  the  centre-line  of  the  wing 

(not  necessarily  always  exactly  at  the  panel  join  line).  If  required,  you  can  embed  a  small 
piece  of  lead  into  one  of  the  wingtips  towards  the  leading  edge.  If  one  wing  half  is 
significantly heavier than the other the glider can have a tendency to roll one way better than 
the  other  or  consistently  drop  one  wing  tip  when  stalled  (ie.  one  wing  half  is  stalling 
prematurely).  Another  sign  that  the  wing  is  unbalanced  (or  warped)  is  when  there  is  a 
noticeable  difference  between  the  left  and  right  elevon’s  neutral  trim  position  for  straight 
level flight. 

140.

 

Now  the  very  critical  fore-aft  balance.  The  S-15  has  been  designed  to  balance  at 

185mm (7 1/4”) back from the tip of the nose. Carefully measure this distance back from the 
nose and clearly mark it with a pen on the bottom surface of the wing. Measure it again to 
make sure it’s accurate. 

141.

 

Now determine where your glider’s current balance point is. There are several ways 

you can do this. Manufactured balancing stands are best but you can also make your own by 
vertically mounting sticks of dowel into a base of wood with the dowel ends sharpened like 
a  screwdriver  tip,  or  similar  arrangements.  As  a  next  best  option  you  can  also  use  your 
finger nail if you’re careful enough. The idea for all these methods is to accurately find the 
distance back from the wing’s nose where it balances ie. where it is sitting horizontally and 
can be made to tip forwards as easily as it can be made to tip backwards. 

142.

 

Decide  whether  you’re  going  to  add  some  of  the  lead  immediately  in  front  of  the 

battery pack or have it all positioned to either side of the battery pack. 

Summary of Contents for Skua 1500

Page 1: ... 1 Wowings Skua 1500 CONSTRUCTION MANUAL Copyright 2005 Wowings www wowings com ...

Page 2: ...ne of the contents have been damaged If anything is missing or damaged please contact your place of purchase immediately to make arrangements for replacement parts to be supplied Your S 15 kit should contain the following 2 x EPP foam wing halves each with two panels joined together 2 x lengths of 9mm diameter fiber glass tubular 2 x length of carbon ribbon 2 x lengths of spruce spar 4 x lengths o...

Page 3: ...ands during the curing process and penetrates into the surrounding EPP foam creating a strong tight bond without adding a lot of weight However if not used carefully it can create a mess and possibly even ruin the wing For this reason these instructions will focus on using more fool proof glues instead If you decide to try using PU glue for the first time it s best to experiment a little on some s...

Page 4: ... slot Wipe off any excess glue 8 Place the entire wing back into its foam beds and rest it on a completely flat hard surface eg table or floor We suggest removing the top portion of the wing beds by cutting along the leading edge Weight it down so that the wing is kept flat and completely snug with the bottom curve of its foam beds To avoid deforming the foam make sure the weights aren t too heavy...

Page 5: ...rom the from the rear half of the foam airfoil shape 14 Once you are happy that they will fit nicely round off the top and bottom edges of the outer end only of each balsa trailing edge piece not where they join together to make covering easier later on 15 Use 5 minute epoxy to glue one of the balsa trailing edge pieces to the drag spar or the foam if no drag spar was installed Hold in place with ...

Page 6: ...n pieces and cut out along the lines marked You will have a left and a right elevon each orientated so that their narrower end is at the wing tip 23 Using a sanding block sand a 45 degree bevel along the leading edge of each elevon with the 45 degree opening on their bottom surface ie they ll be hinged on top surface 24 Round off the top and bottom edges of each end of both elevons to make coverin...

Page 7: ...ION This section of the instructions are for those with a S 15 ballast kit These can be purchased separately in addition the standard S 15 kit and contain the following 1 x length of 9 16 14mm diameter brass tube 1 x length of 1 2 13mm diameter brass tube 1 x length of pine dowel 1 x EPP foam jacket for brass ballast tube Installation of a ballast tube is optional but recommended so as to achieve ...

Page 8: ...e to proceed with the following steps to make the ballast system yourself 35 Locate the 1 2 13mm diameter brass tube This can be used as the housing for your lead filled slugs cylindrical sections Mark out the tube so that it is divided into 8 equal lengths each measuring 1 1 2 38mm 36 Use a hack saw to cut the tube into 8 equal sections seal of one end of each one with masking tape and then push ...

Page 9: ...wing and remove the resulting foam plug 50 Test fit the ballast tube s foam jacket into this cut out to ensure it fits snugly Adjust if necessary 51 Use PU glue or epoxy to glue the ballast tube and foam jacket assembly into the wing so that the side of the foam jacket with the ballast tube channel opening is completely flush with the bottom surface of the wing Place the wing in its beds while the...

Page 10: ...ATION You can use either standard size servos or metal geared mini micro size servos for the S 15 Standard servos have the advantage of being cheaper stronger and usually develop less slop free play in their gears However they are substantially heavier so the model will require more nose weight to balance because the servos are behind the CG increasing its all up weight further by up to about 100 ...

Page 11: ...r with a pen and then cut out along this outline all the way down through the foam Remove this foam plug and mark its front side with a vertical line for later reference 65 Decide whether you want to mount your receiver flush with the top surface of the wing or embed it beneath the surface Base this decision on the layout and size of your receiver and whether you intend to use a switch or plug the...

Page 12: ...nse of replacement servo cases 71 Lay your servo on top of the wing so that one of its sides is on the line you marked parallel to the wing join and one of its opposite corners or servo mounting lugs is touching the line parallel to the spar slot Trace around the servo and then cut around this outline with a sharp knife all the way down through the foam Push out the foam plug and mark with a verti...

Page 13: ...ur radio equipment is functioning correctly it s time to start building it into your glider Soon retrieval of radio equipment will require surgery on your glider so it is best to make any necessary adjustments or repairs now Also keep in mind that you will need to have access to a means of charging your receiver s battery pack once it is embedded into the glider This can be by means of a special s...

Page 14: ...eep the glider rigid during flight For each piece of tape applied overhang the wing by 25mm to 50mm 1 to 2 and wrap around to the opposite surface of the wing When a piece ends at the balsa trailing edge you can just cut if off flush with the edge don t wrap around Rub each piece that is laid down with some fine sandpaper to remove any release agent from the tape s backing for better adhesion of s...

Page 15: ...their correct position butted up against the foam trailing edge with the 45 degree beveled opening at the bottom 105 Spray the top of both balsa elevons and the rear portion of the adjoining foam sub trailing edges with spray adhesive Let dry for 5 minutes 106 Lay a strip of cross weave filament tape down the entire hinge line of one elevon on the top surface positioned so that 1 3 of its width is...

Page 16: ...ips Working your way forwards lay down each strip of tape span wise tip to tip overlapping the previous one by 5mm to 10mm 3 16 to 3 8 Don t worry about overlapping the leading edge of the wing just trim off flush for now it will be covered later Stop short of the nose area you ll cover this area later after the lead balance weight has been embedded into the nose 119 Temporarily lay some plastic o...

Page 17: ...le in this position tighten the lock screw on the EZ connector to fix it to the pushrod Repeat for the second elevon 130 Trim off the excess length of the pushrod using a pair of side cutters pliers FIN ATTACHMENT Attachment of the front portion of the fins can either simply rely on a friction fit into the foam or be held in place with tape as per the following procedure We suggest not gluing them...

Page 18: ...ve everything already installed in place ready to fly namely the fins and pushrods 139 First check that your glider is balanced side to side at the centre line of the wing not necessarily always exactly at the panel join line If required you can embed a small piece of lead into one of the wingtips towards the leading edge If one wing half is significantly heavier than the other the glider can have...

Page 19: ... of each wing panel so that half of the width is on the top surface and half on the bottom surface Split and overlap the tape at the panel joins and split and wrap around at the noses and wing tips 149 Apply trims stripes and or other decorations as desired 150 The included computer cut vinyl Skua sticker has both a backing and a fronting To apply peel the sticker of its yellow backing and press i...

Page 20: ... Don t forget to also make sure that no one else is using the same radio frequency as you prior to turning on your transmitter at the flying site 157 The S 15 is launched by hand The most powerful launching technique is to grab the wing in the centre at the trailing edge so that your palm is against the wing s bottom surface and your fingers curled around the trailing edge onto the top surface The...

Page 21: ...u may lack the necessary flying skills for this glider it s always a good idea to ask someone with experience to check your glider over prior to its first flight and be there to offer suggestions to overcome any difficulties you are having flying it Most people are usually more than happy to help you if they re asked nicely If you have any questions about the construction process or the flying beh...

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