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Refrigerator seems noisy
The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently and uses less energy
than older models. During various stages of operation, you may hear normal operating sounds that
are unfamiliar.
The following noises are normal:
■
Buzzing/Clicking - Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water or fill the
ice maker. If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not
connected to a water line, turn off the ice maker.
■
Cracking/Crashing - Heard when ice is ejected from the ice maker mold.
■
Popping - Heard when the inside walls contract/expand, especially during initial cooldown.
■
Pulsating/Whirring - Heard when the fans/compressor adjust to optimize performance during
normal operation.
■
Rattling - Heard when water passes through the water line, or due to the flow of refrigerant.
Rattling may also come from items placed on top of the refrigerator.
■
Water running or gurgling - Heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into
the drain pan.
■
Sizzling - Heard when water drips onto the heater during the defrost cycle.
Temperature is too warm
■
New installation - Following installation, allow 24 hours for the refrigerator and freezer to cool
completely.
NOTE: Adjusting the temperature control(s) to the coldest setting will not cool either
compartment (refrigerator or freezer) more quickly.
■
Doors are opened often or not closed completely - This allows warm air to enter the
refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors are
properly sealed.
■
Air vents are blocked - Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents.
■
Large amount of warm food recently added - Allow several hours for the refrigerator to return
to its normal temperature.
■
Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions - Adjust the controls to a
colder setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours.
Temperature is too cold
■
Controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions - Adjust the controls to a
warmer setting. Check the temperature again in 24 hours.
■
Top refrigerator shelf is colder than lower shelves - On some models, air from the freezer
enters the refrigerator compartment through vents near the top refrigerator shelf. As a result, the
top shelf can be slightly colder than lower shelves.
■
Air vents are blocked - Remove items that are immediately in front of the vents.
Interior moisture buildup
NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal. Clean with a soft dry cloth.
■
Room is humid - A humid environment contributes to moisture buildup. Use the refrigerator
only in an indoor location, with as little humidity as possible.
■
Doors are opened often or not closed completely - This allows humid air to enter the
refrigerator. Minimize door openings, keep the doors fully closed, and make sure both doors are
properly sealed.
Interior lights do not work
■
Doors have been open for an extended period of time - Close the doors to reset the lights.
NOTE: On models with mini LED lights, call for assistance or service if the interior lights do not
illuminate when either door is opened. See either the front cover or the Warranty for contact
information.
Dispenser lights
do not work
(on some models)
■
Dispenser light is turned off - On some models, if the dispenser light is set to OFF, the light will
turn on only when a dispenser pad/lever is pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on
continuously, select a different setting. See “Water and Ice Dispensers.”
■
Dispenser light is set to AUTO or NIGHT LIGHT - On some models, if the dispenser light is set
to AUTO or NIGHT LIGHT, make sure the dispenser light sensor is not blocked. See “Water and
Ice Dispensers.”
NOTE: On models with mini LED lights, call for assistance or service if the dispenser lights do not
operate correctly. See either the front cover or the Warranty for contact information.
GENERAL OPERATION
Possible Causes and/or Recommended Solutions
Summary of Contents for WRS970CIDE-BL
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