If required, all models are easily repairable. The ball bearings can easily be changed by any maintenance mechanic
by removing the two end covers and pressing out the damaged bearings from the turbine wheel. Remove both nuts,
press the shaft out of the bearings and turbine. Note: Use Andok C or Unirex N2 (by Exxon) or equal type of grease.
When reassembling be sure the turbine wheel is put back so that the incoming air will hit the pocket of the tooth, not
the back of the tooth.
When new, the turbine vibrator might be slow in starting due to:
A.
The bearings being packed with grease. Excess grease will be thrown out of the bearing after a short
operating time.
B.
Temperature might be low causing the grease to be stiff. After a short operating time the grease will warm
and begin to loosen.
C.
Bearing seals are stiff when new or cold. A brief run time will wear them in.
Sudden loss of vibration:
A.
Loss of vibration could be caused by a cracked weld or a crack in the bin. Vibration will not travel through a
crack. Follow the instructions below on how to fix the problem.
Troubleshooting
The improper welding of bin stiffeners, to which the vibrator is attached, often results in fatigue cracks in the bin.
This can be preventd by properly welding stiffeners to the bin side. A stiffener should be stitch welded to the bin leav-
ing 3 to 4 inches between welds. STOP WELDS 1 IN. FROM THE ENDS OF THE STIFFENER. This will prevent
fatigue cracks that occur due to crystalization of the material. This crystalization is caused by the heat concentration
that develops when the ends of the channel iron are welded. To stop the cracks, drill a hole at the end of each crack
and weld on a piece of angle iron as shown above. When welding on the angle iron STOP WELDS 1 IN. FROM
THE ENDS.
3 or 4 in.
c h a n n e l
Do not weld 1 in. from
end of stiffener
Mounting plate
for vibrator
Stop welds at least 1 in.
from ends
If cracks have developed, drill holes at the ends of the
cracks and weld on angle iron as shown
13
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The Vibrator Won’t Start!
1. Check for dirt in the airline OR inlet opening
2. Check for dirt or debris clogging the exhaust muffler
3. Double check the size of your air line - is it large enough to give you the correct cubic feet per minute (CFM) and
correct air pressure (minimum required = 20 PSI)?
4. Did you mount the air regulator far enough away from the quick acting valve for the right amount of air pressure
to build up?
NOTE:
Beraings may require a short “break-in” period to run at optimum VPM stated in the catalog