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WEIGHT

Crew Weight:

 Always 

race at maximum weight 

allowed by the class: 

400 kg

. It is better to be 

heavy in light winds than 

to be light in high winds. 

Since the J/24 starts to 

heel at eight knots, you 

will almost always be 

hiking. 

Boat Weight:

 Remove 

everything from the 

boat. Carry only what 

is required by the rules, 

and each of those things 

at minimum weight, like 

the anchor and outboard 

engine.  

Crew Gear:

 You spend 

hours removing things, 

cleaning the boat, buy-

ing lightest shackles and 

reducing the weight of 

every piece of spare 

equipment, which is all 

the more reason to limit 

what your crew brings 

aboard. You can’t imag-

ine how much five bags 

full of clothes can weigh. 

Headstay Length:

 The 

headstay length should 

be the maximum al-

lowed by the class rules. 

The measurement is 

taken from the center of 

the headstay pin at the 

hounds to the intersec-

tion of the stem/sheer 

line. The total length 

should be 

8670mm

Because the heastay hole 

in the bow of your boat is 

approximately 

65mm

 up 

from the stem/sheer line 

intersection, the actual 

length of the heastay 

from the centers of each 

hole should be 

8605mm

Mast Length:

 The mast 

length should be mini-

mum allowed by the class 

rules. Contact a class 

measurer as this is a com-

plicated process. 

Your shrouds may be too 

long to get adequate 

rig tension if you have 

to shorten the mast. If 

this is the case, you may 

be able to shorten the 

shrouds by cutting the 

turnbuckles. 

Spreader Angle/De-

flections:

 First, cut the 

spreaders to the mini-

mum length allowed by 

the class rules, which is 

760mm

. Pull the spread-

ers back as far as they 

will go using a string tied 

around the shrouds at 

the spreader tips. Then 

measure from the middle 

of the string to the aft 

face of the mast. The 

spreaders are at the right 

angle when the measure-

ment is 

165mm

. Tape the 

spreader ends to protect 

the spinnaker and genoa.

After Stepping the Mast

Butt Position:

 The front 

face of the mast should 

be 

2845mm

 from the 

bottom bolt of the bow 

stem fitting (looking 

forward while in side the 

boat) to the forward face 

of the mast at the “I” 

beam. Block the mast 

(at the partners) solid at 

2910mm

 from the stem/

sheer line intersection for 

the maximum “J” length.

Centering the Rig: 

Adjust 

the upper shrouds hand 

tight and center the top 

of the mast. To find if  the 

mast is centered, hang a 

bucket of water approxi-

mately one foot above 

the deck from the genoa 

halyard. The bucket of 

water puts a constant 

load on the halyard. 

Next put a tape mark on 

the halyard about two 

feet above the bucket’s 

handle. Then swing 

the halyard out to the 

starboard upper shroud 

and put a tape mark 

at the same height as 

the one on the halyard. 

Now put a similar tape 

mark on the port upper 

shroud. The last step is 

to measure from the tape 

marks to the base of the 

chainplate on each side. 

If one measurement is 

shorter than the other, 

tighten the shroud on 

the long side until the 

two measurements are 

the same.  UK Sailmak-

ers has a video of this 

under the Education tab 

of the home page: www.

uksailmakers.com. Finally, 

measure side to side to 

find out if the mast is in 

the middle of the boat at 

the partners. 

Tensioning for Base 

Settings:

 Using a Loos 

Tension Gauge Mode 

B, tighten the upper 

shrouds to 

20

 and the 

lowers to 

15

 on each 

side.

Adjust the backstay bridle 

turnbuckles so that the 

roller is about 10” below 

the connector plate. With 

this measurement you 

will need to have 

2 1/4”

 

of pre-bend. Tighten or 

loosen your backstay 

TUNING THE RIG

Summary of Contents for J/24

Page 1: ... keel will provide more lift better pointing upwind and less drag off the wind Rudder Keep it clean as possible Repair all damage immediately especially on the trailing edge Rig There are several things to do before step ping the mast Remove the spare genoa halyard Remove the running light and wiring Cover the holes with sail number martial or Teflon tape Cut mast butt off to the class minimum len...

Page 2: ...e shrouds at the spreader tips Then measure from the middle of the string to the aft face of the mast The spreaders are at the right angle when the measure ment is 165mm Tape the spreader ends to protect the spinnaker and genoa After Stepping the Mast Butt Position The front face of the mast should be 2845mm from the bottom bolt of the bow stem fitting looking forward while in side the boat to the...

Page 3: ...in winds from 8 up to 16 you can trim the genoa one inch closer than the numbers on the above chart Tip Write this chart on the deck with the number of turns you need to move from one tension setting to the next Loos Tension Gauge Model B FINE TUNING THE RIG Your mainsail is designed to perform in 10 knots of wind with 2 1 4 of pre bend In heavy air bend can be achieved through backstay tension wh...

Page 4: ...hances are one of these items has occurred Over tensioned the genoa sheet Over tensioned the genoa luff A loose mainsail leech Jib Trim Once the wind picks up over 19 knots you will need to change to the little jib Set the lead so that the foot of the sail touches the foot of the pulpit and the leech reamins 2 insde the spreader tip If the wind goes over 25 knots move the lead back 1 to tighten th...

Page 5: ...der Bring the tack the corner of the sail at the pole lower than the free flying clew NEVER allow the tack Sail at maximum crew weight Sail the boat as flat as possible Do not pinch Set the shroud tension for the wind you are expecting in the first part of the race When in doubt select the more powerful option because it is easy to depower the boat Downwind heel the boat to wind ward Downwind use ...

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