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Step Seven- Flush Trimming the Top
Note:
Before flush trimming the top, make sure the inlay on the end of
the body is flush/flat and where the sides meet at the neck block is also
flat. This small detail will insure the router will follow evenly around the
body especially when you cut the groove for the purfling. Use sandpaper
to lightly smooth this area being careful not to sand through the veneer.
1)
Using the flush trim bit in your router go all the way around the top
and back to trim them flush with the sides.
Note:
Expose only enough of the cutter
to cut the top flush. If you go to deep,
this could show or worse yet.
This is a
critical step.
Cut a test piece on a scrap
of wood and verify results.
Note:
You will cut “into” the top where
the neck mortise is cut into the
neckblock. Be prepared for this to
avoid breaking off corners. Use your best technique as routing may tear
some of the short grain.
Step Eight & Nine-Grooving the top & back and gluing the binding &
purfling.
The “purfling” (thin black and white strips) and binding (thicker black or
white strip) of the soundbox is a critical step and you must take extra care
to get this step right. You need to feel comfortable with a small laminate
router with only half of the base maintaining stability on the soundbox.
Technique and a steady, safe hand will ensure a good cut. The back tends
to be more difficult because it has a slight curve that creates different
angles as you move around the soundbox.
Note:
Before cutting either the binding or the purlfing on the guitar, cut a
test groove on a scrap piece of wood and check the fit on the material that
will go in the groove you cut.
1)
Install the 1” rabbeting bit in a small laminate router with the .88”
bearing to match the width and depth of the
binding.
Set the height
