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just slightly shallower that the height of the binding. It is preferable to
be a little shallow instead of too deep because you have
no
room for
sanding the wood flush to the binding. Go all the way around the body
and cut the groove.
2)
Using the same router bit setup, cut the groove all the way around on
the back of the guitar.
3)
Because the back is slightly curved, it is necessary to further trim the
groove by hand, to ensure equal depth all the way around the back.
Notice that at the top and bottom and even sometimes at the waist of
the back, the depth of cut is less than other areas cut with the router.
4)
Being very careful, scrape or chisel an equal depth and feather in
these areas by sanding. We recommend dry fitting the binding on the
back to ensure there will be an even thickness of binding after it is
scraped.
Note:
Before moving to the next step, determine how many pieces of
“purfling” you will use. There are six individual pieces, 3 black & 3
white. Use as many or as few pieces of the binding as you wish. We
recommend that you use a contrasting piece of “purfling” next to the
binding.
Note: Cut the groove for the “purling” on the TOP ONLY!!!
5)
Install the 1” rabbeting bit in a small laminate router to match the
width and
depth
of the
purfling.
Set the height just slightly shallower
than the height of the purfling. Go all the way around the body and
cut the groove.
Important Note:
Remember to change to a lower depth of cut for the
purfling.
If not you will have made an irreversible cut.
Note:
Use the following setups for the number of purfling strips
a.
.48 – Six Pieces of purfling
b.
.64 – Five Pieces of purfling
c.
.70 – Four pieces of purfling
6)
Scrape one side of the binding to ensure that the glued side is smooth.
Note:
The binding has a thin contrasting strip that must be scraped
flush on the side that will be glued in the groove. Otherwise, the
binding will not sit in the groove properly. If the thin strip is separated
