TROUBLESHOOTING
PAGE 20
SMOKES OUT FUEL DOOR WHEN OPEN (see
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)
1. The primary air control is closed.
2. The chimney is too cool. Set the primary air control
on "HIGH" with the bypass damper control "OPEN"
for a few minutes before opening the fuel door.
3. Excess creosote will not only restrict your draft but it
will create a risk of a creosote fire. Strictly adhere to
maintenance requirements as outlined in this man-
ual. If excess creosote has built up on the inside of
the firebox sides and door, burn a small hot fire at
intervals that are more frequent with air control on
HIGH for a few minutes.
4. Deposits may have built up in the chimney and are
restricting the draft, or the spark arrester on top of
the chimney may be plugged.
5. Chimney diameter too large or too small to provide
adequate draft.
6. The house is too airtight (usually takes 20 to 30 min-
utes for problem to appear as stove lowers air pres-
sure in house). Crack a window open or provide an
outside source of air near stove.
7. Insufficient vertical height to chimney to achieve
adequate draft.
8. The combustor is plugged from engaging too soon
(remove combustor and clean, see
Maintenance
section, pages 17-19).
DOES NOT PRODUCE ENOUGH HEAT (
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)
1. Using green or insufficiently cured wood.
2. Excessive draft.
3. High ceilings (heat rises quickly, but can be recircu-
lated by a well-placed ceiling fan with a win-
ter/summer switch).
4. The area to heat, is too large (square foot (305
square mm) heating estimates are based on "aver-
age" climates and home design).
5. There is an obstruction in the chimney.
6. The chimney or chimney cap is restricted by creo-
sote preventing enough draw to sustain a "HIGH"
heat rate.
7. Combustor light off has not occurred.
DOES NOT MAINTAIN A FIRE
(
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)
Soft wood does not burn as long or as well as seasoned
hardwood resulting in a short burn time.
1. Wood size too small. Burns at too rapid a rate.
2. The gasket seal on the fuel door, or glass is leaking
air. Repair or replace it if necessary.
3. There is an obstruction in the chimney
4. The stove was not up to normal operating tem-
perature before the bypass damper control was
pushed closed.
5. Excessive
draft.
BACKPUFFING (
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)
1. Downdraft in the chimney (may need a special
wind cap).
2. The catalytic combustor is too hot (avoid burning
soft, pitchy woods, or large amounts of small-
diameter wood).
3 The house is too air tight (ventilation is needed).
4. Insufficient vertical height to chimney to achieve
adequate draft.
ODORS
1. Creosote accumulation in firebox (brush out on
next cleaning).
2. Chimney downdraft when stove is not operating
(close primary air control).
3. Catalytic combustor not functioning.
4. Paint curing on first several burns.
DIRTY GLASS (
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)
1. Poor draft conditions.
2. Long burn periods at low draft settings.
3. Burning wet, pitchy or spongy wood.
4. Poorly arranged logs (too close to glass).
CATALYST PLUGGING
1. Burning materials that produce a lot of char and fly
ash. Do not burn materials such as garbage, gift
wrap, cardboard, etc.
2. Burning wet pitchy woods or burning large loads of
small diameter wood with the combustor in the op-
eration position (without light-off taking place). Burn
proper fuel only. Do not close bypass until tem-
peratures are high enough to initiate light off.
CATALYST DEACTIVATION
1. Burning large quantities of trash, pressure-treated
lumber or painted woods, etc. will deactivate the
catalyst. Burn proper fuels only. See
Catalyst Re-
placement,
page 18.
(
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) Draft problems
;
If installing into a larger flue, it
may be necessary to use a full length liner to
achieve adequate draft for the appliance. A draft
gauge should read a minimum of .05" w.c.
(inches water column) not to exceed .07" w.c.
for optimum performance (see
Draft Require-
ments
, page 9)
.
f i r e - p a r t s . c o m
